JGS9900CDB01 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

I've done this once before on this same gas stovetop as the electrode can degrade if it suffers from too many "boil-overs". The most important thing to do if the 2 screws holding the burner head on the cooktop are "tight" and don't unscrew easily is to soak them with WD-40 to loosen them up. Don't be in a hurry. They may need a couple of soak and waits. Once the screws are out, it's just a matter of connecting the wire on the electrode and replacing the burner. Also a Star screwdriver that fits properly is essential.

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.

Removed old ingniter with screwdriver. Installed new igniter, but had to remove connector in order to electrically connect using twist on connectors.

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.

First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!

Pull out unit from wall in order to access back panel.
Unplug and turn off gas.
Remove the entire back panel (there is no small access panel like there is on other units. You must remove the whole back panel.)
Open the top oven door and remove rack, then remove the bottom heat shield, unscrew igniter.
Unplug the igniter from the back of the range. If you don't what wire it is have someone jiggle the wire from inside the top over while you look from the back of the range.
Pull out igniter.
Perform all steps again in reverse.

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnect the electric wire - it had a small bayonet connection. I turned the element over and unscrewed the small screw holding the ignitor to the element freeing the ignitor from the element. After receiving the part from Part Select, I reversed the process...

1. attaching the ignitor to the underside of the element using the small screw.
2. reattaching the electric wire to the ignitor.
3. positioning the element on the stove top.
4. reattaching the eelement using the 2 screws.
5. testing and finding it worked fine.

A couple of observations:

1. The screws holding the element to the stove are star screws while the screw attaching the ignitor to the element is Phillips - necessitating 2 different screwdrives for an easy repair.

2. I had problems with the initial part delivery - it went to a wrong address. PartSelect Customer Service was great. I had a less than 5min wait for getting a rep on the line with the 1 call I had to make to get this corrected. And when I did get a rep she was both helpful, friendly and knowledgeable in correcting the situation.

Disassembly: Removed 2 screws with nutdriver. Pulled off electrode connection. Screws were rusted and needed replacement.

Assembly: Slipped on electrode attachment. Went to local hardware store and bought 5/8" 8/18 pan head screws. Used screwdriver to screw down burner head. The 3/8" inch screws on the tech sheet do not work. Too short and flange is too wide to fit in opening in burner head.