SVD48600BC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Had estimates of $ 500.00+ to replace clock assembly. Purchased it at parts select for approx $ 200.00 and put it in myself. Will pocket the $ 300.00. Thanks. Turn breaker to stove off. Removed four screws underneath front panel. Must open oven door to access screws. Tilted the panel out from the bottom allowing the top of the panel to come out. Had to remove the two knobs on either side of the clock along with the clock knobs. When the two knobs on the side are removed it releases the mounting brackets for the clock inside the panel. Replaced clock assembly wires one at a time. Reassembled in reverse procedure.

Turned off the breaker to the stove and removed the 4 screws under the control panel. The trim strip and the end caps did not have to be removed. The control panel was lowered just enough to clear the upper edge and then tilted forward so the connectors could be disconnected. Two screws holding the display in place were removed and the new display swapped out. Reassembly was disassembly in reverse. (My wife appreciates having a bright display again.)

Unplug and pull range away from wall.
Remove metal panel from back of range by using nutdriver to remove 4 screws.
Use phillips scewdriver to remove 2 screws holding old spark module.
Unplug 4 wires from spark module and note placement of wires for reinstall.
Install new module by reversing procedure.
Slide range back against wall and plug in.

Entire process took less than 30 minutes.

NOTE: Spark Module received from partselect.com did not match old part exactly. The screw holes on the new part did not line up with screw holes from old part. I reinstalled new part with just 1 screw. Was told by partselect customer service that the part I received had been substituted and would work fine. It does work but it did not fit correctly.

I eventually searched online for a supplier and ordered the replacement knob. Ordering was easy and delievery was quick. Replacing the gas valve knob was easy; just slid it in place. Now all 4 burners are available for cooking again.

Very easy. 1. Turn off power to oven. 2 move the adjustable grills out to gain better access. 3. There are two phillips head screws that hold a bracket to the back of the inside oven. Unscrew both screws. 4 pull the bake element out about 6". This exposes the two electrical connections. 5. Use a plier and wiggle the slide on connector off of the old bake element. 6. With your fingers, slip the old connectors onto the new bake element. 7. Slide the element and wires back in the insulated pocket. 8. Screw both screws back in. 9. Turn on power and make your wife back you chocolate chip cookies just to "test". Sit in an easy chair and enjoy your cookies. If this took longer than 30 minutes inclding baking the cookies, it took you too long. If the cookies are not good, replace the wife. May take a little loger though :)

The range had to be pulled away from the wall to access all of the retaining screws. Once all the screws were removed, the top was easily lifted away, allowing easy access to the clock unit. Three wire connectors were also easily disconnected, and the clock was secured by only two accessible screws. Reassembly was straight-forward; the only difficult, and time-consuming part was sliding the range back against the wall, as tolerances were tight. The repair took 45-60 minutes and the clock shines brightly!

The expert said to replace the clock control and linked to the replacement part. The part was promptly shipped. The only difficult part of the repair turned out to be the removal of the ribbon from the old controller. I noted the tabs on the side of the ribbon receptacle and expected the ribbon to release when these were pushed in. What was actually needed was to not only push in but also to pull upward on the tabs in order to release the ribbon. That was not obvious and it took me a while to get the ribbon released.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

I removed the 4 screws that hold the control assembly to the range and observed that the clock assembly/control board appeared easy to remove.

Ordered the replacement board and it came a day sooner than the shipping I paid for. Only took about 10 minutes to take the control assembly off again and install the new.

There were no instructions with the part....the ribbon connection to the board was a little tricky to figure out...when I first released the clamps that held the ribbon to the board and pulled the ribbon out, I thought I damaged it....never seen a connection like this.

The range works fine now but it should be noted that this part is the logic control board for the entire range. The board malfunctioned over a period of time. First time, the entire oven shut down in the about half way through the preparation of Thanksgiving meal a few years ago. I couldn't bring it back to life and luckily, we had another oven to finish the turkey.

Next, we had trouble with the electronic pilots on the burners. You would turn the knob for one burner and it would attempt to light another burner.

Then the oven would not shut off when the Cancel/Off button was pressed. Would have to go and trip the main breaker to turn off the oven!

This replacement part cost $126 which is a bargain considering a new oven would cost over $2000. And it works great now. But I don't trust this appliance and I get this feeling that I threw good money after bad.

However, my experience with PartSelect was great and I will use them again. I just hope I don't have to spend more money on this applicance.

Open the door and remove the top screws holding the hinge retainer plates. Remove the three screws holding the glass in place at the bottom, the three screws and two nuts holding the top cover. Remove the glass, then the two screws holding the hinge in place. Reverse order for reassembly. Easy fix, but don't do what I did. I went cheap and only replaced the side that was bad only to have the other side go bad a few weeks later. Change both at the same time.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Simply unscrewed two screws holding the old element and replaced it with the new one. Note, of course I had to disconnect the wires that plugged into the back. Really easy and quick, less than $50 total for an that would cost over $2200 today.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Simply removed old knob and popped on new knob. No tools needed.