SVE47600BC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Turn off the electrical breaker before starting! Open the oven door & remove the 4 silver hex head screws under the bottom of the control panel with a 1/4 " nut driver. Pull out on the bottom of panel. This will access the clock assembly. Unplug the ribbon cable by pushing in & up on the small clips on each end of the connector - this is a little tricky but not that difficult. Remove the two small connectors and remove the two clock assembly mounting screws. Reverse the procedure for installation. This corrected the problem with the broil element not working - apparently the electronic clock assembly was the problem there as well.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

My oven door would not close all the way and the hinge receptacle pins were bending over time even with new receptacles. I ordered two replacement hinge receptacles under warranty but they took so long to come, I had to make the door close to cook the Thanksgiving turkey. I used two rectangular magnets from a home goods store, and placed them in the top corners of the door. The door closes better than it did new, and no heat or cooking smells come out. I won't even have to change the hinge receptacles and it beats having to cut out the perpetually bending pins of the receptacles to replace them with stock # 8 steel bar and weld them in place. The magnets stay put. Easy!

My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

always remeber the first thing to do when working on electric components turn off the breaker
remove 2 screws securing the element, pull the element out enough to view the wire terminal attached to element and remove with needle nose plirers ,apply to new element ,replace screws

Cut of electricity. Opened the oven door and removed some screw that were over the door that let a plate be removed. Then that let the part drop down that was holding the clock. I removed 2 screws that was holding the clock in place, unplugged the 3 connectors that feed the clock, attached the 2 screws back in that held the clock, put the part back up in place, added the plate and was done. Turned the power back on. I was delighted when I saw the clock light on. Easy to install.

Turned power off to oven, removed control knobs, took out four screws under panel. Removed four 1/4" sheetmetal screws. Removed front cover, Removed two additioanl screws that held front cover to corner bracketts, Removed two screws that held clock to plate, removed each wiring harness and pluged into new part, unplugged wiring ribbon from old part plugged into new. reassembled. Turned power back on and tested and we had light!!!One repair company was going to charge us over $400 to make this repair!!!

Turned off the breaker. Removed the screws under the front panel and eight screws behind the burner controls (two each). I then slid out the panel and laid it flat on top of the stove. Removed the three connectors. Most difficult was the ribbon connector: Squeeze the clips at each end and slide the top half of the connector up. Then the ribbon slides out (practice on the new part). Only two screws held the assembly in. Reverse the process with the new assembly. Worked great!