SVE47600BC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I removed the 4 screws that hold the control assembly to the range and observed that the clock assembly/control board appeared easy to remove.

Ordered the replacement board and it came a day sooner than the shipping I paid for. Only took about 10 minutes to take the control assembly off again and install the new.

There were no instructions with the part....the ribbon connection to the board was a little tricky to figure out...when I first released the clamps that held the ribbon to the board and pulled the ribbon out, I thought I damaged it....never seen a connection like this.

The range works fine now but it should be noted that this part is the logic control board for the entire range. The board malfunctioned over a period of time. First time, the entire oven shut down in the about half way through the preparation of Thanksgiving meal a few years ago. I couldn't bring it back to life and luckily, we had another oven to finish the turkey.

Next, we had trouble with the electronic pilots on the burners. You would turn the knob for one burner and it would attempt to light another burner.

Then the oven would not shut off when the Cancel/Off button was pressed. Would have to go and trip the main breaker to turn off the oven!

This replacement part cost $126 which is a bargain considering a new oven would cost over $2000. And it works great now. But I don't trust this appliance and I get this feeling that I threw good money after bad.

However, my experience with PartSelect was great and I will use them again. I just hope I don't have to spend more money on this applicance.

Be sure you open the door. Find the small hole in each hinge to stick a pin or other piece of metal so when you remove the door, the himges will stay locked. Otherwise they will disappear into the door. Remove only the top screw of each hinge plate on range frame. Lift up on the door and place it on a table. Remove a few screws on door trim. See the hinge screws. Remove and take out old hinges. Replace the new ones in reverse order. Be sure to place pins in new hinges to keep them locked. Pull out the range about six inches respecting the gas line and vent hose. Remove bottom hinge plate screw, two side screws of hinge receptacle and two additional screws located under the one inch wide trim piece. Remove hinge receptacle and install new one in reverse order. Do the same on the other side. Carefully push the range back in while lifting up a bit to avoid scratching the floor. Check gas, vent line/hose and trim are sll ok. Reinstall the door by sliding hinges into receptacles. Reinstall the last screws on thrbtop hinge plate. Remove locking pins. Lift door up to check fit. Done! Remember you cannot change only hinges. Hinge receptacles that hinges latch onto must also be changed because both hinges and receptacles wear.

Open the door and remove the top screws holding the hinge retainer plates. Remove the three screws holding the glass in place at the bottom, the three screws and two nuts holding the top cover. Remove the glass, then the two screws holding the hinge in place. Reverse order for reassembly. Easy fix, but don't do what I did. I went cheap and only replaced the side that was bad only to have the other side go bad a few weeks later. Change both at the same time.

My husband did the repair. He had difficulty removing the old element, probably because it had been in there for 20 years. Once he got the old element out, it took less than 30 minutes to install the new one.

We simply removed the front knobs, the 8 screws underneath the front panel and dropped down the control panel. We removed two screws holding the assembly and removed the ribbon cable and the two other connectors. We put the new one in and reattached all the cables and reassembled and it worked great. Took 15 - 20 minutes.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

I only had to unscrew two screws to remove the existing element. Unfortunately, when I removed the element I found that the electrical wire connected to it had melted off, so the element is actually still good. I had to strip the wire back and put a new wire connector on. Once that was done I hooked the element back on and screwed it back together.

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!

After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Simply unscrewed two screws holding the old element and replaced it with the new one. Note, of course I had to disconnect the wires that plugged into the back. Really easy and quick, less than $50 total for an that would cost over $2200 today.

We followed the DIY stories of others (like this one):

Turned off the breaker to the stove and removed the 4 screws under the control panel. The trim strip and the end caps did not have to be removed. The control panel was lowered just enough to clear the upper edge and then tilted forward so the connectors could be disconnected. Two screws holding the display in place were removed and the new display swapped out. Reassembly was disassembly in reverse.
Had to be gentle about unplugging and plugging in the ribbon cable.
Very happy with PartSelect product, delivery and website help.