SVE47500W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

I first turned off the circuit breaker for the range. I then I removed the four hex screws from the underside of the panel and then dropped the panel to expose the clock assembly. I then removed the two screws holding it in place, disconnected the cables and removed the old unit. I then reversed the procedure to install the new unit. I next turned on the circuit breaker restoring power to the range. And like magic I once again had light. I know I must have made by Daddy proud. I should have done it sooner. Thank you for making it so easy by sharing the "how to's" with me. It was especially helpful to have the model number.

I looked at the schematic from PartsSelect, undid the 8 screws and replaced the clock assembly. I probably saved $200 on labor doing it myself. I had the clock repaired in 30 minutes.

As described by many others before. Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel for the house. Unscrewed the front panel, disconnected the three connections to the old assembly and unscrewed the assembly.

Cleaned a few pieces then screwed in an connected the new assembly, put it all back together, turned on the power, said a prayer and IT WORKED!

Once the display became too dim to read, I removed the front panel to determine how to access the piece and to check part numbers so that I could order the proper piece. Once the part arrived, being familiar with the disassembly, it was simple enough to replace the part quickly. The part came out with two screws and the connections were standard electronic multi plug, making the replacement simple. When we turned the power to the unit on, it worked first time.

always remeber the first thing to do when working on electric components turn off the breaker
remove 2 screws securing the element, pull the element out enough to view the wire terminal attached to element and remove with needle nose plirers ,apply to new element ,replace screws

Turned off the breaker. Removed the screws under the front panel and eight screws behind the burner controls (two each). I then slid out the panel and laid it flat on top of the stove. Removed the three connectors. Most difficult was the ribbon connector: Squeeze the clips at each end and slide the top half of the connector up. Then the ribbon slides out (practice on the new part). Only two screws held the assembly in. Reverse the process with the new assembly. Worked great!

Cut of electricity. Opened the oven door and removed some screw that were over the door that let a plate be removed. Then that let the part drop down that was holding the clock. I removed 2 screws that was holding the clock in place, unplugged the 3 connectors that feed the clock, attached the 2 screws back in that held the clock, put the part back up in place, added the plate and was done. Turned the power back on. I was delighted when I saw the clock light on. Easy to install.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

took out old one and after straightening out the significant bends in the metal frame holding the screen, that were caused by shipping the screen in too flimsy of a container, I installed this into the range.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

EXTREMELY simple - drop in. AND- the part cost less than half the price quoted by appliance vendor...2 years earlier !!! This site is a marvelous resource for parts one can install with minimal skill.

Removed old filter and replaced with new.

Replaced membrane switch, my color (white) was unavailable, installed new black panel. Formerly non-working switches now work, but the cooling fan now constantly runs, the downdraft fan won't function, and the oven light will not extinguish. Old panel works fine. Is there a problem with this new panel, or is there an incompatibility with the new design?