SVD48600WC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

lift out old filter, wash, put in new filter.

There were only 4 screws to remove to take off the thingy that houses the electronics portion. Then, there was a ribbon connector and two push on connectors to unconnect. Unscrewed the 4 nuts holding the faulty Assembly in place, replaced with new Assembly, and reversed the process.

That easy. The only problem was making sure which of the parts we actually needed.

After getting help from customer support, I was able to order the part. I tracked the part on FED EXp.
After deliver the part was installed and working in 5 minutes. All that for less than $50.00.

Simply removed the front burner using 1/4 incn nutdriver on
two screws.placed new burner in position and tightenwd two screws.
Simplest and easiest job I ever did!
Works as new!

it took me longer to get my portable screwdriver from my shop than to remove four screws from the panel and two screws from the clock assembly and to unplug and replug wiring , then reassemble the panel

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Removed the two screws that hold burners on mounting bracket . Removed burners and installed new burners. re-adjusted air flow to elimenate yellow flame.

I contacted a local appliance repair store who didn't know what I was talking about. I looked online and the store called me back to tell me the part would probably be $75.00. I took the broken part out of the door frame and found the exact part online at your site, and ordered it for $14.00. Received the part within 2 days and put it in in 10 minutes.

Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.

I removed the three screws that was on top of the display enclosure. I then removed the four screws on the bottom of the display enclosure.

I unplugged the two connectors going to the old enclosure and removed the enclosure to the kitchen table. I then pressed the two locks on the ribbon cable lock and pulled up on the ribbon cable lock. I was unsure how to do this, but if you press the two tabs and slightly pull up on the lock, the ribbon cable will come free.

I then removed the four screws holding on the old display and put the new part in. Fastened with the four screws and connected the ribbon cable, squeezing tabs and raising the black lock, inserting ribbon cable and pressing down to lock in place.

I then took the enclosure to the oven, connected the other two sets of wires and mounted the enclosure with the three upper scres and four bottom screws. Took me about 15 minutes. My $148 PartsSelect part was $267 locally.

Turned off power to stove
Removed control knobs and retaining screws under the knobs.
Opened oven door.
REmoved screws (4) holding the face plate to the stove.
pulled the panel downwards.
Unscreewed clock circuit board.
Removed connectors (3) (See Below)
NOTE the flat ribbon needs to be removed by pinching the ends of the black connector , liftiing and GENTLY pulling the ribbon out of the connector. The black connector remains on the circuit board.
When in stalling the ribbon, pinch the ends of the black connector and lift slightly, insert ribbon, then push down on the loose side of the connector until it snaps shut ,forming a tight connection.

Reverse steps