SCE30600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Turn off the electrical breaker before starting! Open the oven door & remove the 4 silver hex head screws under the bottom of the control panel with a 1/4 " nut driver. Pull out on the bottom of panel. This will access the clock assembly. Unplug the ribbon cable by pushing in & up on the small clips on each end of the connector - this is a little tricky but not that difficult. Remove the two small connectors and remove the two clock assembly mounting screws. Reverse the procedure for installation. This corrected the problem with the broil element not working - apparently the electronic clock assembly was the problem there as well.

I contacted a local appliance repair store who didn't know what I was talking about. I looked online and the store called me back to tell me the part would probably be $75.00. I took the broken part out of the door frame and found the exact part online at your site, and ordered it for $14.00. Received the part within 2 days and put it in in 10 minutes.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

There were only 4 screws to remove to take off the thingy that houses the electronics portion. Then, there was a ribbon connector and two push on connectors to unconnect. Unscrewed the 4 nuts holding the faulty Assembly in place, replaced with new Assembly, and reversed the process.

That easy. The only problem was making sure which of the parts we actually needed.

it took me longer to get my portable screwdriver from my shop than to remove four screws from the panel and two screws from the clock assembly and to unplug and replug wiring , then reassemble the panel

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

My cook top has the red wire piggybacked along all the cook top switches. It was easy enough to reroute the red wire coming from the dual surface burner to pin 4 i believe on the new switch. Follow the previous thread and look at the instruction sheet online for this switch

I cut off the electricity. Removed the back panel. Moved 1 wire at a time from old board to new board. Then removed the old board and replaced the new one. Reattached the back panel and turned on the electricity. I was happy when the oven began to heat.

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

I followed your excellent service instructions.
This was the reason I purchased the part from you,
even though other websites had the same part for considerably less

Followed Igor’s instructions and it was very easy and straightforward. New switches work great.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.

raising the cook top on to 2x2s, one on each end, allowed me to remove the 9 sheet metal screws that keep the glass top fastened to the box containing all of the heating elements and controls. After removing the control knobs and the glass top, everything was clearly visible. Removing the four screws that hold the control box frame in place allowed me to turn the switches upside down and photograph the placement of all of the wires on the pins. I then transferred the wires from the old switch to what I thought were the corresponding pins on the new switch(the replacement switch has more pins, and they are not located in exactly the same spots as the old switch). When I turned the power back on, the switch turned the burners on, I had heat but the indicator lights didn't work. I turned the breakers back off and rewired according to a previous commentors wiring directions(his model was not exactly the same as mine), the indicators worked but I was back to no heat. I called my son, who has his own commercial electric company,and he looked at my photos from before, the diagram that came with the new switch, and it took him about 15 minutes to reconnect the pins to different wires and when we turned the power back on---both indicators and heating elements worked. It was the dual switch and double indicator that made it more complex to figure out. Nice to have very smart kids.