JDS9861AAP Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Removed Stove cartridge from stove-top.

Unfastened bottom screws, I recall 6.

Removed cover.

Removed two screws to igniter.

Used needle nose pliers to remove connectors x 2.

Had to drill to enlarge the mounting screws to new ignitor, then screwed it in place

Connected the two wires to each igniter.

Replaced cover n screws.
Reinstalled cartridge.

Bingo

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Still not fixed. Waited about a year for the part to arrive, due to "COVID supply chain issue". Part finally arrived and was missing a sub component (ironically the worn out part). Now awaiting a reorder confirmation that this is being sent along with a return mailing label.
The re-order required me to obtain a better picture of the part from your competitor's web site, to prove the part sent was defective as your site was inadequate. My first call on this issue failed because of an absence of the better picture.
The 2nd call to customer service was very understanding and professional but I have yet to receive any confirmation on this re-order in the past 5 days.

Because the stove is over 10 years old the screws were very hard to loosen up and I needed to use WD 40 several times to loosen them,after that it was a snap for a 71-year-old woman.

Watched u tube video as supplied and followed instructions. Had trouble getting burners off so cleaned around edge of burners with fine bladed knife as suggested by other forum user and used oil filter type wrench to remove burner. There are three bumps on burner that hold it in place so need to turn anti clockwise to remove.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.

I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.

It is very easy shut off the power yo the stove at the fuse box, unscrew the two screws and pull the element out replace and screw back into place.

This cartridge fits my JennAir Downdraft Slide In Rage, part No. JDS9865BDP. The burner cartridge replaces a downdraft cooking grill module that comes with the original stove/Oven.
The spark quit on the cartridge side. I re-inserted the original cooking grill, and it lit fine. There are two components to look at. The sparker, and the burner igniter (one per each burner). Since both failed to light, I ordered the spark controller.
PartSelect has a video on how to test for failure, but I couldn't find that again.
Two screws mount the controller, two wires re-connected. and works perfect.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

super easy after watching the how to video you had on it and iam the wife not the husband it was so easy thanks