S110 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

part came quickly and fit perfect... everything works great...pretty simple repair... nice to have the right part and have it arrive so quickly

I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I decided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.

The contact spades were burned from 10+ years of use and the cook top module was worn. I disassembled the module, taped the top to protect the creamic cook top, sanded the metal and spray painted to restore the original white finish. On the bottom half I replaced one missing pop rivet and cleaned and spray painted the bottom to restore to the original black. When the contact spades arrived, I replaced the contact spades and reassembled the module. It now works and looks like it did when it was new.

changed out switch

Followed the instructions given by Paul from Mickleton, NJ. Very simple, no problem. Using two small blocks of wood to hold spring loaded hinges out while I replaced the door on the hinges was a big help. Thanks for the excellent delivery time. Great service.

Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Removed the control knobs from each switch and the four palnuts under each knob. Removed the two screws inside the vent well that hold the escutcheon in place. Pulled each switch up as much as possible to expose the wires attached underneath to each switch blade. Remoced each wire and replaced them on the new switch. Same procedure for all four switches. Reassembled in reverse order. Turned on power and all four burners lit up and were regulated as if new. I saved $244.00 doing the repair myself.

Removed the blower assy. Removed the motor. installed the new motor. Reassembled the blower assy. The problem I had was getting the proper clearance for the squirrel cage blower fan to rotate without rubbing on something. I had to make shims for the mounting flanges of the housing to get it to work. Took a lot of head scratching.

Since the motor is larger than the original, remove metal flange; shim one side of housing with 3 washers per screw and reseal..simple! Works great.

Motor (Blower Motor Kit) Part Number: PS1569907
No instructions are included in the package from PartSelect. Disassembly from the main housing was relatively simple. I found that paying VERY careful attention to how the original motor was wired and mounted would pay off in correct re-assembly, conquering motor vibration and rubbing. Most of my project time was spent cleaning the rotating blade wheel from 20 years of grease build-up. On tools, I would have appreciated the inclusion, or availability as an accessory, of a long-stem correct-size allen wrench (used in removal of the fan blade wheel.) The job went well, and probably saved me $200 in service call and labor.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!