S136-C Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

- the fan/light switch was still functioning, but it fell into the cavity underneath, after years of use, heat and grease caused it to weaken.
- 4 wires came off the old switch, and went on the new one with ease.
- the only complication was in getting the clips off of the old ones, and getting the new clips onto the new one. otherwise, a piece of cake.

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

Removed the 4 screws on the bottom of the panel, lifted the panel out and up to clear the uper part of the panel. Removed the screws from the left and right switches, which hold the bracket of the clock, marked the wires of the clock and removed the wires. Installed the new clock in reverse. The power to the range was off.

Replace filter

First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.

Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter.
As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping.
Removed old seal and put new one in its place.
Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one.
Put door back on the hinges and the job was done.
Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.

We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

I first bought an oven thermometer to check temperatures at different levels. Temperature was about 10 or more degree off. I next looked at the manual and found you can make an adjustment to the temperature knob. This didn't make a difference. Decided I would replace the bottom heating element. I ordered and got the element in a matter of days.
The hardest part was loosening up the screws on the bracket for the old element. Thus the use of the vice grip came in handy. My oven is 20 years old!!! I'm sure I saved my husband a couple hundred bucks worth the repair guy.

My thanks to "Part Select" for making the process so easy to order and get a replacement. The repair guy finally called yesterday. Five days after I repaired the oven myself.

Go Girls, you can do it!!!!!!

After accessing the switch and removing the wires(four wires as the rocker switch operates both fan and oven light) I attached the wires to the new switch. However , I was unable to mount the switch in place as I could not get the spring - clip type of fasteners to slip on.
Fortunately, there was space to drill a hole on each side of the switch and I used brass machine screws
and nuts to hold the switch. The round-head screw
tops show on top of the stove, but at least the new switch is in place and operating.

Cut power!
Removed old switch.Only problem was new switch had shifted the four 'spade' connectiors on back so when I was done fan and light switch was crossed.

Everything PartSelect had on their site was perfectly correct.

REALLY appreciated the way PartsSelect handled everything, I will be back for further help on other things.