SVE87600W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I contacted a local appliance repair store who didn't know what I was talking about. I looked online and the store called me back to tell me the part would probably be $75.00. I took the broken part out of the door frame and found the exact part online at your site, and ordered it for $14.00. Received the part within 2 days and put it in in 10 minutes.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Turn off the electrical breaker before starting! Open the oven door & remove the 4 silver hex head screws under the bottom of the control panel with a 1/4 " nut driver. Pull out on the bottom of panel. This will access the clock assembly. Unplug the ribbon cable by pushing in & up on the small clips on each end of the connector - this is a little tricky but not that difficult. Remove the two small connectors and remove the two clock assembly mounting screws. Reverse the procedure for installation. This corrected the problem with the broil element not working - apparently the electronic clock assembly was the problem there as well.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

I cut off the electricity. Removed the back panel. Moved 1 wire at a time from old board to new board. Then removed the old board and replaced the new one. Reattached the back panel and turned on the electricity. I was happy when the oven began to heat.

I first turned the breaker off. Then removed the screws under the display with the oven door open. Then removed the side screws. Then removed the trim kit for the microwave which exposed 3 more screws. The middle one with the Micro Door open. The complete display panel then was removable. I took a digital picture of the 2 wire and 1 ribbon connectiors (I know-anal). Then removed the 2 wire groups-struggled somewhat with the ribbon connector until I realized by trial & Error that the 2 little tabs on the sides only pull upward, releasing the ribbon. Removed 4 nutdriver screws to remove old display-installed new one in reverse fashion. Then I CLEANED everything I could reach it was so dirty! (I live in the desert,duh!) I just paid great attention to how it came apart and it was relatively easy. The best part is that I didn't have to remove the Oven/Microwave unit to do the repair.The new part works perfectly, thanks!

Removed screws on face plate, disconnected wires, placed on counter, removed hex head screws. Removed one end of electric type circutry, replaced with new part and reassembled.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

I looked at the schematic from PartsSelect, undid the 8 screws and replaced the clock assembly. I probably saved $200 on labor doing it myself. I had the clock repaired in 30 minutes.

First I took the screws off of the top hood which can be found right underneatch, this allowed me to access the panel bolts and unscreww them. We then got it far enough so that we could easily replace the old with the new and plug things back in and we were good to go. I am not sure but we must have save hundreds of dollars in a repairman.. This website is awesome..

Open oven door
Remove two sets of four screws underneath the LED display
Remove stove handles (pull off easily - no tools needed)
Lower flat plate width of oven and about two inches deep should be able to drop out from under the clock display.
Remove face plate over clock.
Unscrew four screws holding clock unit down.
Undo two electric connectors and the thin ribbon connector - the thin ribbon connector is different - the ribbon comes loose and the black plastic connector stays in place on the board.
Press the thin ribbon connector ends inward and pull up to detan ribbon on old one and then to insert ribbon on new one.
Reverse the rest.
Not too bad!

I first turned off the circuit breaker for the range. I then I removed the four hex screws from the underside of the panel and then dropped the panel to expose the clock assembly. I then removed the two screws holding it in place, disconnected the cables and removed the old unit. I then reversed the procedure to install the new unit. I next turned on the circuit breaker restoring power to the range. And like magic I once again had light. I know I must have made by Daddy proud. I should have done it sooner. Thank you for making it so easy by sharing the "how to's" with me. It was especially helpful to have the model number.

Turn off power to the stove. Pop off the burner knobs and remove the screws attaching the controls to the front panel. Open the oven door and remove the four screws attaching the panel to the oven frame. The panel slides down giving easy access to the circuit board. Remove the two connectors and the ribbon cable attached to the board. There are small clips on the side of the ribbon cable connector that release the ribbon cable. Unscrew the board and install new board. Reattach the cables, put the panel back in place and attach. Reattach the burner controls to the panel, pop the knobs back on, power the stove back on, put on a pair of sunglasses to view the now blazingly bright display and admire your work.

Turned power off to oven, removed control knobs, took out four screws under panel. Removed four 1/4" sheetmetal screws. Removed front cover, Removed two additioanl screws that held front cover to corner bracketts, Removed two screws that held clock to plate, removed each wiring harness and pluged into new part, unplugged wiring ribbon from old part plugged into new. reassembled. Turned power back on and tested and we had light!!!One repair company was going to charge us over $400 to make this repair!!!

This slide out range requires that you remove two screws that hold the element into the back of the oven, slide the range out, remove a metal cover, and then disconnect the two spade connectors from the element. Reverse is the opposite. I could not find the element anywhere locally. I live in a rural area of the Smokey Mountains. Thanks to PartSelect, I was up and running in only four days.