JGR8890ADP14 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Salvatore from Fraser, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12002792
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
I was washing the top of my stove, and shorted my igniter harness, yow!
When I was cleaning my stove-top, water got down into the igniter switches, and shorted them out. After buying the switch harness from Part select, I had some idea how to install it, but thankfully they had online, step by step instructions. That save me a lot of time and trial and error time. It went in perfectly with their instructions. Thank you very very much for all your help! God Bless!
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Katy, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Needed to replace the oven door gasket/seal
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.
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- Customer:
- MICHAEL from SOMERSET, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12002792
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Center Burner would not ignite via the control knob
Turned off the power to the unit and removed the 2 front screws on the stop-top which are underneath the front when you open the oven door. Removed the back cover and removed the 2 screws for the back of the stovetop and removed the top. Took the old igniter switches out and replaced them with the new set. The connections are simple as they are snap in no wiring required. Replace stovetop screws and replace the back cover.
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Whirlpool gas stove burner igniter had broken.
Our existing gas stove burner igniter had broken on one of the four burners. I therefore obtained a replacement igniter and mounting screw form PartSelect.com which were indeed perfect replacement parts. However, I could not remove the burner plates from the top of the stove since they were basically welded into position by years of heat. I therefore followed instructions as submitted by a previous customer (thank you Michael of Bloomington, Il), snapped open the stove lid retainer clips, and then lifted the stove surface about 4 inches. Through that opening I was able to reach the underside of the involved burner. Unfortunately, I could not unscrew the existing broken igniter mounting screw and therefore had to break off the already broken igniter and grind down the remaining mounting screw using a drill grinder since the screw was basically welded into place. Once I did that, I was then able to install the new igniter using a separate unused screw hole already in place right beside the old previous mounting screw. With that done, the new igniter works perfectly and the burner works just like new. It was however a lengthy process over two hours long because of the glitches described above. Nevertheless I'm very pleased that the parts were perfect and the repair is complete.
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- Customer:
- Jay from Camden, SC
- Parts Used:
- 12002792
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
One of the five-gang igniter switches was stuck 'closed' so we had full-time sparking of the igniter system
This part was correct, but the removal and installation were complicated by the fact the the gas manifold had two support arms spot-welded into place. These arms hold the gas manifold to the cook-top surface by two machine screws. Also, since I could not budge the screws holding the burners to the cook-top, I could not actually remove the cook-top and had to work in just the space between the cooktop and the top of the oven. The two arms prevented the removal and replacement of the igniter switch assembly. The only way I could remove the old switch assembly and replace it was to bend the two support arms just enough to allow the switch bodies to clear the arms. Then of course, I had to bend the two arms back to their original shape. To do that work, I had to remove the gas supply line (aluminum tubing) from the gas manifold and then reattach the gas line. Doesn't sound too bad, but getting the alignment right on the supply tubing nut was quite difficult. Since there is no lead thread on this male nut, nor on the female connection to the manifold, it is very easy to get it cross-threaded if you are not extremely careful.
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- Customer:
- Adam from modesto, CA
- Parts Used:
- 74003645
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
broken oven door inner glass pane.
Remove the door, remove screws from all sides
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
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- Customer:
- Cheryl from WEST YARMOUTH, MA
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Bottom oven not heating
Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful
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- Customer:
- Roger from SULLIVAN, IN
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Upper oven igniter did not work.
Turned off the gas line & unplugged the oven. Pulled oven away from the wall to access the back of the oven. Removed the back panel (screws) on the oven & the few inner oven parts covering the broken igniter. Sprayed WD 40 on the threads of screws holding the old igniter in place. Removed old igniter screws with a nutdriver & unplugged it from the back of the oven. Installed the PartSelect replacement igniter & plugged it into the wiring receptacle. Reassembled the parts covering the new igniter & screwed the back panel back onto the oven. Plugged oven in, turned the gas back on & pushed the oven back into place. Tested the new igniter. Woohoo, oven works again & wife if happy!
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- Customer:
- Ronald from SPRINGFIELD, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Upper oven won't light
Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.
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- Customer:
- Allison from VANCOUVER, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11596211
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven was taking a long time to reach temperature
Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping and removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.
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- Customer:
- Rob from Yakima, WA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.
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- Customer:
- Michael from VALLEJO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Gasket was worn out.
Put a new one in.
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- Customer:
- Stan from CHICAGO RIDGE, IL
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Crazy codes and not heating the oven properly at desired temp settings
1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. If you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!
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- Customer:
- Stephen from Chapell Hill, NC
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven heat loss, door gasket needed replacement
The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!
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- Customer:
- Peter from Montello, WI
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Temp out of wack
replaced heat sensor
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