FCE30510W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

First throw the breaker on the stove. Remove two screws in back of oven then slowly pull out loosen the wire attachements ......got new part in 2 days just as simple reverse the removal directions.,,,I am over 60 female and it was simple.

All I had to do was pull the drawer out and screw on the new part! Awesome experience...and it was so easy to find the part on the website, everything is very clear and with pictures to ensure where the part belongs...who could ask for more?

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

Removed two screws from back of oven ,pulled apart old coil from wires, inserted new coil into the small metal pieces, pushed back and screws replaced. Really easy , anyone can do. Oh, I am 70 years old so probably people younger could do more quickly.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Remove over door remove screws holding door togather remove old trim. install handle on new trim, install new trim to door reasemble door, reinstall door.

Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!

Pulled the drawer and removed the oven door by pulling it upward. Then removed the two hex head screws which loosened the old hinge and pulled it down out of the side of the oven box. Replaced the new hinge in the position of the old one and installed the two hex head screws. I replaced the oven door and that was when I realized the part was wrong. The parts description in the view on the website was one number off and I replaced the broken hinge and ordered from another site the right number. That hinge works.

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.

The repair was easy as unplugging the range, unscrewing the bake element from the oven, pulling the wires out, unplugging the element and plugging the new element in. The oven works great after the repair! Too easy!! If I have to explain how I replaced the light bulb; you may not want to try it, you might hurt yourself.

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!

The repair went very easy. I quickly removed the screws holding the frame to the oven door. The weight of the glass, held in place by the frame, pulled the unit off after the last screw was removed. The new part was "exact" and the reinstall went easily. The only caution would be to expect the weight of the glass in the door to pull down the frame after removal of screws!

first I removed the 2 screws, I then pulled the element out., accidently lost one of the wire in the insulation and had to take the back panel off which was 8 screws. Probably doubled my time. I received my part in 4 days thanks to good service and FedX It arrived the day before Thanksgiving. Just in time, Thank You All.