IJP87801 Inglis Range - Instructions

I took the back plate off of the oven by removing 3 screws and removed a single screw holding the sensor element in place, plugged the electrical 2 prong terminals back together and re-assembled the back of the oven. After the installation was completed we did a test run. It worked for aprox. 15 minutes and shut off again. It must have re-booted its self, cause when we tried it again it worked and still is working.

Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

pulled door up and out. Disassembled door. removed old glass and rope gasket. installed new glass and gasket.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Removed the back access panel of the stove. Removed 2 screws holding the temp sensor, replaced temp sensor, Installed back panel. Done 19 minutes.

I was able to remove the door by opening it partially and lifting it up while jiggling it. Once off, I laid it with the inside up on a table and the screws along the bottom facing outward so I could access them easily. I removed the various screws and porcelain covers and sides feel of easily. The inside panel lifted off exposing the inner glass and frame. The screws and clips had to be sprayed with penetrating oil to remove them. The frame lifted off and the cracked glass was removed. I was careful to wipe away all the fluid used to loosen the frame clips. Assembly was the reverse of this being careful to let pieces fit nicely without force. It would have cost me $39 to have the repair performed assuming I could get the door off. A Phillip's head screwdriver was not adequate to remove the frame clips. You needed a correctly-fitting square drive.

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

Step 1. Always ensure appliance is unpluged from power source. 2 Remove oven door by open slighly and lift up be sure your hands are up from hinges they can snap back and injure fingers. 3. Have a cover on a flat surface and have a diagram of oven door, 4. Remove bottom screws and slide out top glass and side rails. 5 Remove top cover and insulation over glass. Beware of any jagged glass. 6. Incert new glass. 7. Be sure when replacing insulation and cover that cover in under tabs to ensure glass is firmly held in place repeat steps in reverse order. Took just 20 minutes to repair. I used a small electric screw driver.

Ceramic cooktop: Turn off power to the unit. remove long "locking" screws from underside of the unit; remove clips (may take a little effort if they are "frozen" in place) From underneath unit lift it up and out of the counter - do not try to lift from ceramic top- remove 4 control knobsun - remove 12 screws (3 per side) attaching ceramic top to the unit - carefully work ceramic top off the bottom frame; its a friction fit - do not force it. Place ceramic top in a safe, flat space. Note the orientation of the burner - you will need to replace the new one in the exact same orientation - also note the connections on the existing unit and match them to where they will go on the new unit. (note: my old unit had a black wire that was replaced by a solid metal strip) work the wire clips off the existing unit, flip it ove and note the number on the "clock face" where the spring clips attach. You may need to drill a small pilot hole from the top side. remove the spring clips from the old unit and place them on the new unit. These clips align the unit in the proper location and provide proper contact with the bottom of the ceramic top. Replace the top gentley working it onto the base and replace the 12 screws. Place the unit back in the countertop being careful to lift up to reposition so you don't disturb the foam tape along the edge of the opening. Replace the clips in the side of the unit, replace the mounting screws, replace the control knobs, turn power back on. You should be done. Takes about 30 minutes.

A breeze. Lifted top, propped it, removed defective element, disconnected wire modules,connected modules to new element, fastened new element, closed top.

Followed Mfgs instructions.

I can't believe how easy this was to fix. 1. Unplug the stove. 2. remove the screws that hold the stove top in place. 3. pull the top up, unplug the electrical wires and unscrew the ground wire 4. remove the stove top and flip it over. 4. unscrew braces holding the burners in place. 5. with pliers, remove the wire connections between stove top and old burners 6. replace with new burners. 7. reattach everything. And you're done! Go brag to the neighbors about what you just did.

Removed the right side panel, lifted up insulation, removed element and replaced with new.

I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.