RB757WB1 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

Shut off power to the range in breaker box used a .025 inch socket to remove two mounting screws pulled forward slowly to disconnect the two wires.Checked for nicks or cracks in wire installed new element restored power done .

I needed to replace all stovetop bowls and found all after-market bowls "just a little off" effecting how flat the burner rested so called PartSelect's hotline and was assured that if I were using the actual model number found on the stove the parts would definitely fit and not almost fit, guaranteed, and they did!

Dropped in new bowls. I was surprised how in-expensive new ones were.

Unplug appliance. Unscrew bolts that hold heating element in place. There will be wires that need to be carefully detached from the heads. Take heating element out. Install new one, reattaching wires and bolts in that order. It might be nice to clean the oven a bit while you're in there, as smelling something burning right after a repair job can be a bit unsettling! Ha. But it works great, and the fix is incredibly easy. So glad we didn't call a repairman.

Oh puhleeze LOL I plugged them in. The only reason I'm even writing this is to let people know how great the service was from Part Select. I putzed around with a major retailer for several hours trying to figure stuff out on their website (and I'm extremely computer literate). Finally I just threw up my hands in defeat, decided to give this a try and in just a matter of minutes my parts were ordered and paid for. So pleased!!

Removed two screws, pulled old element forward 2 inches, removed two wires. Pulled old element out of oven. Put new element in oven, attached two wires, pushed element all the way in, put two screws in and tightened them. Turned oven on to test new element. Element worked. Project completed.

It took longer to get the new element out of the box than it did to install it. I removed the two screws with a 1/4" nutdriver, pulled the element out roughly three inches, unplugged the connectors and discarded the old element. I did the reverse to install the new element.

I took a chance and guessed that the problem was the element, as opposed to a thermostat or other part that may have failed. (Oven was made in the 70's) I entered the data for this old oven on the PartSelect.com website and it came up with a part for me to order. When I received the replacement element, I noticed that it was not "exactly" the same shape as the old part, but the dimensions were correct and it fit into the space on the bottom of the oven without any problems. The dimensions of the connectors were pretty close to exactly the same as the old element, and the screw holes in the mounting plate lined up perfectly with the corresponding threaded holes in the back wall of the oven - it took me less than 15 minutes to install the part and the oven appears to be working perfectly again.

Not really a repair. But would like to say, I like the price and shipping was super fast. Thanks.

I disconnected the power to the stove and it was very simple, undid the nuts with socket wrench pulled element out and diconnected the wires.I put the new element back in the same way the old one was removed .I am a 70 year old woman.The great part was the element was shipped out vey quickly! great service

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!

Took the upper back covering off, disconnected the clock control. The only problem is the replacement didn't have the same connections so I was able to pull up the replacement number of wb27x10311 and asked for a diagram which told me exactly where to plug each of the red, white, blue and yellow wires, what a relief! To my amazement I fixed my "old" stove for less than $160, if I had called GE to service it, I'm sure I would have been looking at a $400 bill. This was the way to go, Thank You!