RF49*R3 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Repair was easy.
Note: the element leads have a potential across them,
so unplug the unit or you'll have an arc strike.

I liked the selection method at PartsSelect.com.
Finding the replacement part was easy from the pictures.
The prices were reasonable.

The part came next day, which was a surprise.
Removal and Installation was 4 screws.
I have become a DIY hero.

Only downside was going out for dinner every night ended.
This site is now a Favorite.

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

The delivery of the part was within 3 days.I only had to connect the two screws had biscuits that night.

Tried contacting GE and no luck, they did not have vintage parts. After searching and locating Partselect, I was able to see a pic of the actual replacement part. I wasn't sure about purchasing online (1st timer) but decided to go for it!

I was able to track the package, although FedEX was setup to deliver to my resdient, I had the package addressed to my office but we worked that out also and walla.

I was very please and now I can bake my famous Pot Roast again. The oven was not working for 8 mos.

Good Eaten!

SJ-Long Beach CA

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

Simply removed the old one and replaced it with the new one. Part Select was the only company that was able to identify the part without the Model Number. The Model number was
worn off and unable to read. After going through several
on-line parts dealers, Part Select was the only company that could identify the part I needed. The repair was simple and
short. My old stand by oven is in operation again.
Thanks, Laura

Following common sense, I removed the broken bake element by first removing two retaining screws and then disconnecting the element from the internal wires using a nut driver for both operations. The new element was installed in reverse order first using a screwdriver to attach the element to the internal wires (the new element had embedded threaded openings and came with two new machine screws) and then using the nut driver to secure the element to the oven wall.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Element was in two pieces so it was obviously dead. I disconnected the stove from the power, I undid the two screws at the back of the oven and gently pulled the element out. There was enough slack to reach and pull the connectors apart. Done. I ordered the part from "PartSelect" and it arrived the next day. Unfortunately I ordered the element with "Screw" convectors as opposed to "push on" connectors. I bought a couple of connectors and cut off the original connectors from the wires in the oven and replaced them making absolutely sure they were well and truly tight. Two screws cam with the element from "PartsSelect (Thankfully). Connected the wires and screwed it back into place. Stood clear, plugged it in and turned it on to max. Worked just fine, Thanks

I removed both screws to remove lower element, and measured it prior to ordering the replacement.
Then in a few days it arrived, and I installed it. The new element had small bolts rather than screws the original used to attach both wires. A flashlight was necessary in locating an keeping an eye on the wire ends, to keep them from being pulled inside the back cover, as the bolts were attached.

The repair was a bit difficult because the screws connecting the wires to the element were small threaded bolts and no slot for a screw driver. They were very difficult to break loose - that's when we used the Liquid Wrench and waited. Other than that, the repair went smoothly. It is better to remove the oven door, if you can, otherwise the rear of the oven is not as accessible. It is also a good time to change the light bulb.

I unplugged the stove, unscrewed two nuts, pulled the two wires forwrd and disconnected them. Attached the wires to the new burner and it works fine!

First -- and thank goodness I read some of these stories first or I would have forgotten -- I turned off the circuit breaker to the stove.

I removed the two nut screws holding the element itself to the back of the over. Then I removed two more nut screws holding the element to the electrical wires. (This took some WD-40. The stove is about 25 years old.)

That was about it. Everything lined up perfectly, and there was nothing more to do except reconnect the new element and throw the breaker back on. It works!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires