RC776*05 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.

Turned off the breaker to the range. Turned on range to ensure no electricity was currently flowing to the range. Turned the range off and unscrewed the tilt lock hinge. Pulled the burner out to expose the wires. Popped the snap locks off the cover box and unscrewed the wires connected to the posts. Followed recommend directions to expose approx. 1/2" of new wire (this is what I used the knife for since I did not have a wire stripper available). Slightly cut thumb in the process (no blood, though). Removed old burner. Put new burner in place, re-attached wires to the posts and screwed in to place. Placed cover box back in place and secured using new snap locks. Attached tilt lock hinge using new screw that was provided. Turned breaker back on and turned on range. new burner worked great. Took about 20 minutes total. Wife was extremely impressed, mostly that I didn't electrocute myself. She now wants me to replace other three burners. No good deed goes unpunished.

I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

The broil element was easy to replace. Start by either unplugging the unit from the wall or turning the circuit breaker off. I started by removing the two screws that hold it in the back. There was a support bar attached to the top with two screws also. After removing all screws, gently pull the element forward exposing the two wires. Make note of which wire goes to which terminal. I also clipped a clothes pin to each wire to prevent them from falling back through the hole. Disconnect the two wires and reconnect to the new element. Reattach all screws and you're done.

I diagnosed the problem as a burned out element. Received the part the next day (very quick service) My husband replaced the old element with the new. My broiler still doesn't work. I don't blame the company, my diagnoses was wrong. I have called the appliance repairman and it will probably be an expensive fix.

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

Some times it's not the element at all, as in this case. After rmoving the element I found the wires broke. Fortunatly I had some high temp wire left over from a earlier oven repair. I used butt splices and heat shrink tubing to repair the wires. Then I crimped on a couple of eyelets and fastened things dow.n I received a big kiss form the wife for getting the broiler fixed so fast. Maybe a little extra work, but the rewards were worth it.

Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.

Repair is pretty easy, its the accessability that makes it difficult. This is a wall mount oven. Removing the door would provide pretty good access, but having to reach over the door into the very top back of the oven is a real pain (in the back and other places). As another customer said, there were many dropped screws and much cussing. The old element terminals were just holes in a metal tab that accepted tapered screws. The new element had terminals that were threaded to accept the screws provided. It took lots of twisting and turning of the element and the power wiring to get the terminal on the wire lined up with the terminal on the element in a position where I could hold them together and insert the screw and start the threads. Don't try this after you've had a beer or two. Whew!!! Many tries, sore back, but did it. Like I said, simple except for the reach. Bake element was much easier. Hope I don't have to do this one again. My GE oven is a winner (20 plus years old) and Parts Select has what you need at a reasonable price and ships quickly. Have used before and will use again, if needed.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

There was no burner listed like 40 yr old burner that failed. Got one the same size and connections. Cut old burner out of the stainless steel ring and new burner fit right in. New burner works great

Just re-connected the electrical. Was the exact/correct replacement part. Repair successful. Thanks.