RHV786*05 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

There was no burner listed like 40 yr old burner that failed. Got one the same size and connections. Cut old burner out of the stainless steel ring and new burner fit right in. New burner works great

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

Good directions

Some times it's not the element at all, as in this case. After rmoving the element I found the wires broke. Fortunatly I had some high temp wire left over from a earlier oven repair. I used butt splices and heat shrink tubing to repair the wires. Then I crimped on a couple of eyelets and fastened things dow.n I received a big kiss form the wife for getting the broiler fixed so fast. Maybe a little extra work, but the rewards were worth it.

Unscrew 4 easy nuts and 1 most difficult nut, gently pull both long and short wires, at this point assure the wife that you did turn off the power.You may wish to attach a cord to short wire as it wants to vanish into the rear bowels of the oven On instruction of the wife clean the oven. Reverse dismantling procedure. Switch oven on. Bask in wives praise.

Repair is pretty easy, its the accessability that makes it difficult. This is a wall mount oven. Removing the door would provide pretty good access, but having to reach over the door into the very top back of the oven is a real pain (in the back and other places). As another customer said, there were many dropped screws and much cussing. The old element terminals were just holes in a metal tab that accepted tapered screws. The new element had terminals that were threaded to accept the screws provided. It took lots of twisting and turning of the element and the power wiring to get the terminal on the wire lined up with the terminal on the element in a position where I could hold them together and insert the screw and start the threads. Don't try this after you've had a beer or two. Whew!!! Many tries, sore back, but did it. Like I said, simple except for the reach. Bake element was much easier. Hope I don't have to do this one again. My GE oven is a winner (20 plus years old) and Parts Select has what you need at a reasonable price and ships quickly. Have used before and will use again, if needed.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

The repair was almost to easy. It makes me wonder how many times in the future I will be willing to now attempt a repair instead of waiting and paying much more to have someone else do it. I thank you for the easy to understand video directions.

The repair was very eash. The replacement element fit perfectly and only involved removing two screws, pulling the old element out far enought from the bak of the oven to disconnect the wires held by two screws . Disconnecting the two wires and installing the new element. This is a 25 year old appliance and is back to working like new. One note, be sure to shut the power off to the range because one of the wires connected to the element remains HOT! even if the oven is not on.

Replaced 30 year old stovetop cooking element with no problems. Stovetop works great now.

Unscrewed the prongs to the old element. When the new element showed up I put the new element back in again. Had no problem with the replacement and my oven works great.

This was a second hand stove we have had for about 3-yrs. I noticed immediatley that the drip bowls and rings were not OEM parts & the bottom of the burners had actually been bent to fit the rings. I was very glad to find this website with a detailed diagram of the stove and parts. I intend to replace all the burners, drip bowl & rings, and then start replacing other parts as needed.

Took off the oven liners, took out 2 retaining screws, pulled out element, removed wires, reversed procedure, easy

From inside the oven after turning off the breaker I removed all of the mounting screws with a nutdriver, I removed the wire screws after taping all of the wires together with a small piece of tape to prevent them from falling back into the opening. I installed the wires with the original screws as the provided screws would not fit the holes, tightened them, removed the tape and placed the element back into the opening. I then tightened the hanging brackets, after getting them to align and then tightened the rear mounting bracket. It did help to adjust the baking rack down and leave the baking rack in place to have a place to rest my arms. The install then became a piece of cake!

This model has a top oven and a bottom. The repair was to the top oven. I shut off the electricity to the oven at the circuit breaker box.I removed the grates and unscrewed the two screws holding the burner in place. I gently pulled the burner free along with its two attached wires. I removed the two screws that retained the connections to the burner. I installed the new burner in the reverse order. Turn on the circuit. Good to go.