GGF356BBWB Gibson Range - Instructions

Snapped the new part into the slot the old one had been in.The repair including opening and closing the drawer took less than a minute.

1: Remove oven door.
2: Remove bottom shield, slide in.
3: Remove flame deflector four (4) screws, nut driver.
4: Remove igniter, two (2) screws, nut driver.
5: Remove lower drawer, slide in.
6: Remove wire shield, two (2) screws, nut driver.
7: Disconnect two (2) wire nuts, hands
8: Remove old igniter, hands
9: Install new part in reverse order...

I should have ordered it earlier. It was so easy to install. At first, the oven took 1 minute to light, then, a bit longer, finally around 20 minutes, I told my husband that he needs to get it fixed. So, finally when it wouldn't light at all... I ordered the part and had him install it. It took less than 15 minutes, listening to him the whole time. Now it's wonderful, like a new oven again. Lights up like it should.

Great part selection. Fast service. Thank you

Turned off the breaker to the oven. Took out the racks and oven floor. Took out the steel deflector that sits on top of the oven burner itself (one bolt/washer). Removed the two bolts holding the igniter. Pulled the old igniter around the other side of the burner to be able to better access the wires. There was a woven sleeve around the ends of the wires, pulled those down the wire to expose the connection. There was an inline connector about 2-3 inches from the igniter, and normal wire after that. I cut the wires where that connection was made and stripped 3/8 inch off the cut wires. Then I cut the wires of the new igniter to the same length as what remained on the old igniter, stripped 3/8 inch off of those, paired them up and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new part to make the new connections. Put it all back together, and fired it up. It works wonderfully!

It was amazingly easy! I am a woman who was a little afraid to deal with wires. But it was just so super easy! And, I saved a bundle by doing it myself! Here's how I did it:
(1) UNPLUGGED OVEN FROM WALL!!!
(2) Remove floor of oven (1 screw)
(3) Remove large metal strip underneath oven floor (2 screws)
(4) Removed oven igniter (2 screws)
(5) Marked top wire of old igniter before cutting
(6) Cut both wires close to old igniter
(7) Removed a little of the covering of the old wires to expose bare wire
(8) Matched up old top wire with new top wire & twisted both old wires to the new wires
(9) Replaced all screws and oven parts

Step one - Diagnose. Used a clamp-on ammeter around the igniter lead to check if 3.6 amps or greater were present during ignition. Only about 2.5 amps were measured, indicating that the igniter was bad.

Step two - Ordered the part.

Installation - Removed the racks and bottom oven compartment cover plates, exposing the igniter/burner assembly. Removed the bottom drawer, cut the wires of the existing igniter (leaving plenty of wire left for the new one). Removed the igniter/burner assembly through the oven compartment. Removed the old igniter from the burner, installed the new one. Re-seated the igniter/burner assembly, routing the wires appropriately. Stripped the existing leads (cut in previous step), spliced the new leads in, soldered the connection (soldering is optional). Taped up the splices with electrician's tape. Turned on the oven to verify that the new igniter glowed and the burner lit. Turned off the oven and waited for the burner to cool. Replaced the bottom cover plates and rack.

Final step - Baked some bread.

order pcs fit perfect.

Unplug power, remove draw, marked and cut wires, unscrewed and removed old igniter, replaced and screwed new igniter into position, reconnected wires with supplied porcelin wire nuts, replace draw, plug in and tried...working great.

Disconnect appliance from electricity source! Removed oven grates and the solid oven floor by removing the two screws and lifting up. Removed the piece of metal covering the oven igniter. Unscrewed oven igniter, snipped the wires close to the old igniter (read some of the better descriptions on how to do this). Reconnected new wires to the existing ones and used the ceramic wire covers that came with the new igniter and pushed the wires back through the opening in the rear of the oven. Screwed the new igniter in place. We actually had to unscrew the little metal box on the back of the oven to get to the wires which was easier to work there with connecting the wires. It was a little difficult reaching into the stove since we didn't remove the oven door.

The stove was older so the burner was hard to get out. The small screw heads broke off, so I had to carefully center punch and drill out the screw bodies. The igniter screw was also frozen in the pot metal burner. That screw requied drilling and tapping with the installation of a new 6-32 screw. Once the burner was refurbished, the igniter mounted easily. Afte attaching the gas line and igniter wire, the burner worked great.

Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.

Checked internet for possible reasons why oven would not heat.

Found Partselect.com website. Searched and found that ignitor was probably the problem.

Put in my oven model number and found ignitor. Ordered ignitor.

When new ignitor came in I simply removed two screws that held old ignitor and disconnected two wire.
Put new ignitor on, replaced screws and wires.

Repair done and oven works great.

Our original oven ignitor went bad. The gas supply won't even open, unless the oven senses the proper voltage / resistance across the ignitor, so that gas won't be flowing without ignition.

PartSelect was very good about providing me with the proper part, after I got the part number from their schematics and wiring diagrams, on the website. The first replacement part actually arrived, broken, from shipping, but when I called them, they immediately reprocessed the order, and sent me a new ignitor, to arrive the following day. I was very satisfied with their professionalism, as I've been in the past with them, as well.

On to the actual repair:

I removed the broiler drawer from the drawer slides, reached under the main oven chamber, unscrewed the two screws holding the ignitor in place, and cut / disconnected the two wires supplying the power to it.

I then put the new ignitor in place and screwed it back to the mount, used the wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect / splice the wires, and put the broiler drawer back in place.

Oven fired right up!

Entire process took less than 35 minutes. (Likely would've taken a bit longer, but this is the second replacement for the ignitor, since we've owned this oven, so I already had a good idea how to do it. (The first replacement for this particular part was NOT from PartSelect, so we're hopeful this one lasts a while longer than the previous one.)

Thanks, PartSelect!

no need to remover burner. Lift top up use a 1x4x5" to hold top up. Use short #2 screw driver remove screw and replace with new igniter

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

I searched the item I needed and followed a link to PartSelect.com. I paid a little extra for shipping and literally recieved the part in two days. The part was an absolute perfect fit and my wife and myself have never been happier. Home cooked meals again thanks to the folks at PartSelect.com. It couldn't have been an easier.