JKP27G2J4 General Electric Range - Instructions

Once I saw the gasket that was supplied it was really easy to see how to install it.
A hook on either end of the gasket gave me the clue on how to remove the old one.
Off with the old and on with the new in less than 2 minutes!!
Extremely easy!! Thanks Part Select for having what I needed!

Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.

Two of the knobs fit perfectly.

The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.

Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to reduce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!

Turned off power. Then loosened two nuts at back of oven. Pulled out old element and inserted new element. Tightened two nuts and turned power back on.

Piece of cake

Simple, unscrew and then re-screw

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Took out old one and replaced with new one. The only problem I had was my arms were not quite long enough. I had to climb into the oven to get to the electrical connection.

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

I removed the screws that held the element in place. This was the most difficult part because clearance was tight between the screws and the element. I gently pulled the element out enough to expose the wire connections. I disconnected the wires and removed the element. Installation was the reverse - connect the wires, re-position the element, re-install the final screws.

First I turned the power off to the oven/stove at the breaker box in the basement. Then I took the back plate off. Then I removed the two screws holding the wires onto the damaged element. Then I removed the two screws holding the element to the inside rear of the oven. Then I pulled the old element out and replaced it with the new element. I replaced the two screws that hold the element to the inside of the oven. Then I replaced the wires on the element where it protruded at the back of the oven. I put the back plate back on, slide the oven back in place and turned the power back on at the breaker and everything worked.

The element was 25 years old and I was concerned about changing it. But is was so easy. I turned off power and removed 2 screws and then unscrewed the wiring from the old element. I had the new one installed in minutes. I was so glad to have my oven working again. Who needs a man.