JBP25G2R1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Absolutely no tools required for this task. Simply align the prongs to the female portion on the stove top. Carefully push in until the element is in place then line up with the drip pan slot. No instructions are necessary!!

Flip the circuit breaker going to oven off, then used a 1/4 inch socket on the mounting flange bolts and the bolt head screws attaching the wires. Then used a flat head screwdriver to reattach the wires with the supplied screws and bolted the new element in place. Back to the circuit breaker flipped the switch and turned the oven on to test it, and now works fine. *be sure to remove the sticker before installation, use rubbing alcohol to remove any residue.*

remove broken heating element and install the new one

Turned off power. Removed old broken one installed new one in minutes. Turned power on and tested it out. If this 60 something lady can do it, you can too.

Very easy repair. 2 hex head screws to take the heating element out. Then 2 more slot head screws for the wire connections. Perfect fit and operation of the new heating element.

Ordered part, took old bake element out, installed new bake element. It was real easy.

First I disconnected the power. Then I removed the burner element and drip pan. Using the screwdriver I removed the single screw that holds the terminal block in place. I then cut the 2 wires to the old terminal block. I connected the wires of the new block to the existing wires using the supplied wire nuts. Next I slipped the supplied heat shrink tubing over the wire nut and wires and using the heat gun I applied heat to the shrink wrap. Finally I reinstalled the new terminal block using the old screw and re-installed the drip pan and burner. I repeated the procedure for 2 other burners that were exhibiting the same problem. All work perfectly.

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Easily removed two screws, pulled the wires out of the oven wall, disconnected the old and reconnected the new, pushed it back into the insulation, inserted the screws and tightened them. There was a problem with the model number. It was on a vinyl plate inside the oven drawer wall. The plate was slightly yellowed so I used my finger to wipe the yellow away. When I did, the model number ended up as a black smudge on my finger tip. GE's engineers could have come up with a better method of displaying the model number. GE's customer service operator, however, did an excellent job of helping me to ascertain, at least, some of the number.

First observed the situation to determine if I should try and repair. I decided I could and should. Got the element and proceeded. I first turned the power off at the circuit breaker to cut the electrical power to the stove then I removed the two screws that holds the unit in place and then pulled unit out to where I could see the wire connection; removed the two screws on the wire connection and replaced the old element with the new element. reinserted the unit back into position and replaced the two screws that holds the unit in the stove. Turned power back on and tested the oven for any problems. Stove is working great.

Followed the enclosed instructions