J785004AV General Electric Range - Instructions

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

Replacing the part was fairly simple. Do not forget to dis-connect the element from the back.

removed 2 nuts holding the element in the oven. removed 2 screws that secured the wires to the element. installed the new element in reverse.

The customer service at PartSelect.com is wonderful. They assisted me to located a part for a 40 year old oven. Took only a few minutes to take the old one out and put the new one in. Process was pretty self explanitory.

Removed old terminal block by removing one mounting screw. Removed two wires from block. Installed new terminal block by reversing procedure.

turn off breaker in electrical panel....remove stove socket from outlet....remove rear panel from stove....undo wire connectios from broiler element....inside the oven, gently move thermostat wire out of the way....unbolt broiler plate from rear wall....remove broiler hanger and then broiler element....reverse procedure and you're all set.

Unplugged oven from mains.

Removed screw holding terminal block to oven top. Used screwdriver to remove clip holding protective card to terminal block. Removed Philips screws holding wires onto terminal block.

Replacing the terminal block was just doing the above instructions in reverse. The only thing different was to put the speed clip on the range top before attaching the block to the range top.

The baking element burned through, in my really old double oven. (It was in our home when we bought it 16 years ago.) It was the top oven element that broke. I wasn't sure it could be repaired. I looked on line and I found it. It took my husband less than 30 min. to fix it. I have my oven back but it would have nice to get a new one.

Unplugged Stove, pulled away from wall. With smaller wrenches, took the two screw-nuts off the inside back and above that hold the broiler element in place. Since it is an older stove...took the back panel off the stove with philips screw-driver which consisted of 10 screws. Once that was removed was able to unscrew the broiler element from the two wires that provide the electricity. Used the flash light when I had to unfasten the screw-nuts inside the stove because kitchen lighting wasn't strong enough.

Turned power off to oven. Unscrewed back plate exposing wires connected to heating element. It was difficult to unscrew the connections between them as it was hard to reach in because the oven door was in the way, but i finally succeeded. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burned out element and then attached the wires to the new element. Attached the bracket and I turned on the power. I then tested the oven and it worked.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Removed 4 screws and removed the old element and replaced in the reverse order.