JCAP750WM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in

The wire to the burners were old and needed replacement. When the new terminals arrived, my husband had gone hunting. When the parts arrived, I pulled the stove away from the wall and found the nut driver that I needed. I removed the screw on the terminal box under the burner and realized I had to remove the back panel of the stove. I unplugged the old wires and plugged in the new ones. I installed the new terminal boxes under the burners and plugged the burners back in. My stove works like new and I am thrilled that it was so easy. Thanks

Removed the burner elements, removed and disposed of old drip pans, cleaned the area, relaced with new drip pans and replaced the burner elements. Verified all burners were level - good as the day it was new!

I pulled range away from the wall and pulled the electrical plug. I removed all of the heating elements and raised and secured the top panel.I then removed the one screw that held the terminal block in place.now I went to the rear of the range and remove six screws that held the top cover in place.I now cut the two wires going to the old block,I pushed the new wires through the back panel.I installed the new terminal block using one screw. Now I went to the rear and removed the old wires and installed the new wires. I rolled up excess wire and secured with plastic ties. I installed the rear cover using six screws,I put electrical plug back into outlet,pushed range back in place,lowered front panel,replaced all the elements and turn on left rear element.FINISH EVERYTHING WORKS. P.S. I ordered two terminal blocks,if it happens again in any of the blockes I'll be ready. total costs for both $25.55 plus shipping.

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.

Replace control switch

Disconnected the electric burner from the terminal block, unscrewed the terminal block, removed the two back covers from the range, cut the two wires (since the wires that came with the replacement part were not long enough to reach the switch), spliced the new part to the existing wiring using wire nuts, installed the new terminal block and connected the electric burner to it. With the new terminal block in place, the burner does not lie completely flat like the old one did, but it is functional.

Watched video,and used it as guideline.Biggest problem was removing tape from old wires.

There was an excellent video demonstrating a very good method for replacing the terminal block at Parts Select.. I ran into a problem with the kit. The wires were too short. Instead of replacing the entire wire I needed to clip off part of the old wiring and solder the kit wires to them. I also needed to insulate the connections with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out.

I simply followed the instructions on the PartSelect website. Since the range is 20 years old, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I used needle nose pliers to carefully nurse the old terminals off the burner controls, and used fine sandpaper to burnish the male contacts on the burner controls. Since the failed terminal block wire had overheated, I burnished the burner contacts that slip into the terminal blocks to eliminate any resistance that could cause overheating. So far, all burners are working great!

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Replace the sucket for the heating element.

I can add nothing to the video you furnished on your website. I am generally all thumbs with home repairs - especially anything electrical - but, your video led me right through it. A good experience. We'll do business again.Thanks.

had to pull range away from wall and unplug it so we could get behind to access the rear panel. we then removed old terminal block, by, removing screws from back panel, and one screw from under burner drip pan, inserted, new block, and reassembled. plugged it in to test and burner worked properly.

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!