JCAP750WM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

watch the vidio on your site very easy repair!i give you guy's 5 stars out of 5 !

Followed the video supplied with the email on the parts order form. Biggest problem was pulling the range out from the wall, the repairs went without a hitch. The PartsSelect video was a great help showing the short cut to getting the new wires in by using the old wires as a pull wire.

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!

This burner is on a Monarch wood and electric range. The 8in burner shorted out and fried the switch. I had to remove the cover over the switch's. I marked each lead with paper and stapled the paper to the leads. When the switch came in I just had to reattach the leads.

The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.

I purchased my stove second hand. It was a mess but I saw a gem under all that dirt and grime. It took me a week and it looked brand new. The end caps on the oven door handle were discolored and cracked. They made the stove look old. It was an easy repair and my stove looks brand new. I will order an extra set just in case as these parts are getting harder and harder to find. I am so pleased with the original parts. They were here with in days and well before promised delivery date.

Identified the switch that went bad. Order a new one and replaced it. The part came in a timely fashion and I am pleased with the result.

had to pull range away from wall and unplug it so we could get behind to access the rear panel. we then removed old terminal block, by, removing screws from back panel, and one screw from under burner drip pan, inserted, new block, and reassembled. plugged it in to test and burner worked properly.

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Turn off power at main electric panel/ move stove away from wall and unplug cord from outlet. Take knob off the front take two screws off the panel, take back panel off and remove the used switch and take and replace the wiring to the new one , one at a time wire for wire. Then put back tighter in reverse of the way you took it off. Plug in cord and move stove back to the wall. Easy

watched it on parts select this is a real fast and simple install took longer to pull the range out of its position well started by shuting off the power then double checked that the range was deenergized removed the knob then the 2 screws then on the rear of the range removed the back panel about 8 screws used a nut driver then removed the old switch removed each wire one by one and pluged each wire into the new switch just as they were on the old switch the new switch was exactly the same so every thing matched up perfect installed the screws to the front which hold the swich in place then the back cover turned on the power and tested the switch every thing working ok done shut off power slid range back into its place turned power back on everything still ok

I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.

Removed the back top cover with 1/4" nutdriver. Removed the burner terminal block with 1/4" nutdriver. Within 15 minutes had the terminal block kit removed and installed and in service.

Remove old wire and replace new wire into place.

The original GE blocks/wires were color coded to specific burners. The new ones are not color coded since they are sold individually and work with any burner, but they were identical to the originals in every other way. Just remove old blocks one at a time and connect the replacement so that the burner is connected to the proper control. Since the stove age was unknown, I replaced all four blocks to eliminate a repeat of the problem later. The screws holding the blocks and the wiring cover on the stove back require the same small socket wrench; not enough room in some places for an adjustable wrench. It took no more than 20 minutes to replace all four, test the burners, and close up the back wiring panel. The instructional video on the website eliminated my hesitation to tackle this repair. The parts arrived the next day, with no special shipping service requested. WOW. PartSelect will be the first place I go to find what I need for the next fix-it. I'm almost looking forward to something else breaking. LOL. Thanks, PS.