JMS08BA1WH General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the two mounting screws then pulled the element forward and disconnected the two element screws. I reversed the process to install the new one/ this oven is over 30yrs old.

If I'd had the Nut driver, it would have taken 15 -20 minutes or less. Went to Ace Hardware, bought the nut driver for $4.99.

Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.

Kimberly, El Cerrito, California

Removed the oven racks, removed screws holding element hanging support from roof of oven, removed screws holding plate of element to rear of oven. CAREFULLY worked element loose from back of oven and gently alternated pulling each side of element (near the base) until connecting wires came free of insulating batting. Pull too hard and the connecting wires can break loose and disappear behind the batting. Once freed, disconnected both wires with socket (use pliers for extra grip on flat part of connectors, if necessary), removed element, braced new element on bottom of oven, aligning connectors to now-free wires. Re-attached with the new screws that came with the element (attachment points on element are threaded; do not reuse old screws as the threads may not match), gently re-inserted element into insulating batting at rear of oven, reattached hanging support, then replaced element plate screws.

Can be difficult to work in small, deep ovens....many oven doors can be removed. If so, remove oven door and use a chair as a support...lie on your back on the chair and hang your head and arms in the oven.

I removed the screws holding the old element in place, then pulled it out a few inches from the back oven wall. Then I pulled the wires away from the old baking element (pulled off easily), and being careful to keep the wires on the same sides as before, pushed the new element on to the wires. It was then just a matter of inserting the wires and insulation back into the opening and tightening the screws. Simple!

It was very simple.. first turn off the electricity... next take out the two screws holding the element to the back of the oven... then pull the two plugs apart( male and female ends) ... throw away old part.
put new part in by plugging the male and female ends back together... push back into oven back.. get all insulation back in... put two old screws back in to secure... done.. turn on power...
don't be afraid.. it was very, very easy.

Remove the screws inside the oven holding the back of the element to the rear wall of the oven. These scrrews are a square drive. Pull element forward and remove 2 screws that hold wires in place. Both sets of screws needed to be replaced with a different size. Reverse order to install.

I first removed the broken element by removing the two hexhead screws on either side of the element bracket. Then I gently pulled the wires through the opening and removed two more screws that attached the wiring to the element. I then compared the new and old elements and found a few differences.

First, the screw holes where the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.

Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.

I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.

Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.

It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.

Shut off the power from the fuse box. Removed p the two screws and plate that attach the element to the wires and back of oven. Installed the replacement element by attaching the wires and reinserting the two screws. Restored power and tested the new element by preheating the oven at 350 degrees and letting it heat for 15 minutes. Works like a charm!

Removed oven door from oven. Removed the inner oven door portion from the outer part to gain access to inner screws attaching end caps to front of stove door. Removed those screws and the old end caps & broken off pieces. Pressed oven door handle bar into new end caps. Reattached oven door handle assembly to front of oven door. Reinstalled inner oven door which included long screws that also went into the new end caps. Reinstalled oven door on oven. Job was easy. Price was certainly right for the end caps at $10.01/each.

It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.

Bought new version of control element (parts no longer available for the old one) and luckily had a sheet with the oven describing how to disassemble the cook top from the range to get to the old control. After removing the top and installing the new control element, followed the instructions backwards and reassembled the range. Total job took about 4 hours. A real serviceman could probably have done it in 2 Hrs.

[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.

[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.

1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT AND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.

First I unscrewed the end of the oven door and realized I could replaced the parts easily that hold the handle on the door. Then I held the sharp, broken plastic ends with a towel and used my drill with a thingy that fits on a small hex nut and unscrewed the broken handle parts and removed them. All I had to do after that is screw on the new handle holders with the handle bar fit snuggly between them, presto, new handle bar installed. Great service from partselect. com. Would use them again.!

I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing handles were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.