JSP34BD3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I followed the instructions given to me in the package and all went well. I cut the old wires off the burnt terminal block, stripped the wires, installed the wire nuts with the shrink rap, installed the new terminal block and burner. The new burner is working great! Thanks

First, I cleaned all the glass from the stove. then I inserted the replacement glass into the slots and screwed the bolts back into the stove. It took me about 1o minutes to do repair. It waS VERY EASY..

First pull knob off switch. You may need a small screwdriver to gently start it. I then removed two screws, one in each end of control panel. Then rolled the panel up and out, as it is kind of hinged in the back. Removed two screws from switch front,layed it to the side and installed new switch. Removed wires (there were 5) one at a time with needle nose pliers, and placed on new switch. Replaced panel screws and was finished. Easy fix, quick delivery of part, I have used Partselect in the past and will continue.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.

Safety first: Turn range circuit breaker to off position. Turn a surface unit [burner] to the on position ,if no light exists power has been removed. Turn surface unit to off position. To remove bake unit. With a 1/4 socket driver remove two self tapping screws and gently pull out on the bake unit until you can access the slide on terninals. Careful lenth of wire is limited. Remove slide on terminals two each [2] . Install new bake unit in reverse order . Restore power

I turned off the main power! Then unscrewed the back cover unhooked the wires and unscrewed the coil inside of the oven and pulled it out. My 10yr old son and I measured it and went online to order the part. I first did go into BestBuy and they didn't have the part (But they tried to sale me a new oven!) LOL Now who said a newly divorced mom couldn't fix her own oven! My Tech Support skills came in handy! Women Rock! LOL

I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the burner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you

I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.

Bent the tips so the phillament can fit inside the oven.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

I removed two small screws located on the underside of the control panel. I then rotated the bottom of the control panel up and dislodged the few connections at top back of control panel. The control panel became loose enough to lay forward exposing the inner control switches. The old problem switch wiring was removed one by one and placed in the same spot on the new switch. The old switch was then removed by pulling off the front control knob and then unscrewing two screws holding the old switch in place. Then the new switch was installed exactly as the old switch was removed.

Fast shipping, Very easy to install I am a senior and had no problems works Great!!

At first thought I was taking out some insulation but. "Clamp" just slid off and was very easy to install! Finding the right size socket took longer than the repair!

standard procedure, very simple