JBP85WB2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

pulled range out,unplugged it,thenI removed the two screws that hold the element in place.take back cover off, then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.put new element in,put wires and screws back in place,checked to see if worked,did not work,check and reset breaker,it works put cover back on,push range in palce and done.

First, pulled out the old heating element and all the peices that were left after it fell apart. Since when you pull out the old one, the wires it connects to tend to recess back into the oven wall, I had to pull out the oven and take the back cover off in order to push the wires and connectors back through the receptacle in the oven. This was really easy as you only have to remove 5 screws from the middle panel on the back of the oven rather than the entire oven back. Once the wires were back through, I just plugged in the new unit. The oven works just like new now. I'm sure I was able to save between $75 to $100 just for the service call by doing this myself.

unscrew and disconnect the old unit. Connect and screw in the new unit

Disconnect stove electrical connection. Removed 2 bolts common to the upper stove top cover. Disconnected 4 wires from burner element along with 2 retaining clips.
Removed burner element and replaced with new element. Reinstalled 4 wires and 2 retaining clips. Lowered stove top cover and reinstalled 2 bolts. Connect stove electrical to wall outlet. Turn on burner element and verify that it works.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.

Really easy even i could do it , it was a little fiddly and the wires disappeared into the back of the oven , i easily removed the rear panel and pushed the wires back thru and connected them , turned the breaker back on and sparks !!
removed the rear panel again in 2 mins and saw that the wires were touching the oven frame and had shorted out , it wasnt a problem moved them slightly, reconnected them to the element tightened them up , put breaker on and Done , took about 45 mins but i could of been done in 30 with a little more care in the beginning of the job EASY !

Got door off no problem used screw drive to release locks and lifted door off. Took 3 1//4 screws out the 2 3" long screws out to separate door half's took screws of hinges and then8 1/4 inch screws of sheet metal that covered window. Replaced window and reverse what I did taking apart. Still having trouble getting 1 hinge to connect to stove. Help would be appreciated.

First, my husband removed the two screws that hold in the element. Unfortunately, my GE Spectra oven had extremely short wires. That was the only thing that made it somewhat difficult. So, he pulled the element out as far as he safely could, replaced it with the new one. No problem! As I said, the only thing that made it difficult was the short wires supplied by GE. The part came from PartSelect.com with no problems. I would definitely use this website again to order parts.

The repair went very well. The second repair comnt to remove the hinge screws was a good correction from the first description. I had to go to that parts diagram to realize that the the two metal sleaves were insulation spacers for the two top screws.

Removed fasteners holding door assembly together. Cleaned out broken glass. Placed new glass frame. Reinstalled fasteners

Easy

After reading about possible losses of the wire leads, I put together a simple solution. First, turned off the breaker, then pulled the grates out for full access.
Using a nutdriver on the hex-head screws holding the backing plate to the oven wall, I removed the screws, then gently lifted and pulled the element and it's attached wire leads out of the insulated rear of the oven.
Attach a plastic clothespin to each lead above the spring clip attaching the lead to the element so the springy wire would not tend to pull back into the difficult-to-access insulated area "behind the wall" because that would be a real pain to get at.
With nothing other than fingers, the spring clips can then be removed from the tabs on the element, the old piece removed, the new element set in place and quickly re-connected. No Problem!

I unscrewed the 2 screws that held in the element, pulled it out a little, disconnected the 2 wires, got the new element out of the box, connected the two wires on the new element, put the screws back in and it was done! Very easy.

Pulled out stove. Removed rear panel, and set aside. Removed melted bake element by unscrewing the mounting plate screws, and unplugging both leads from the stove. Replaced in reverese fashion. Easiest electrical replacement I have done.

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.