JGS968SH4SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

I had read the customers reviews and expected that I'd most likely break the attaching screws. My trick was to not just unscrew then all the way out but to turn it a half a turn and then screw it back in. Then out again a little more then last time and back a little. Didn't break a thing. I did have to move the stove out to get to the plug but that was just enough for me to get my arms in there.

Odered igniter from part select, it arrived the next day. Removed oven door removed heat shield on bottom of oven and there it was. Removed the two screws pulled the wires till the connector came through, unpluged connector, plugged in new igniter, repaced everything and Bam, we were cooking. Did not even have to pull oven out from the wall. Super easy.

No response from GE website (very disappointing). google "repair GE gas range igniter" and very simple step-by-step instructions...apparently is very common with GE appliances...even mine that was less than 14 months old. Service tech would have charged $300. Did it myself for $80

Owners manual provided no help. Thankfully, the internet did. Internet convinced me the problem was the igniter, and with hindsight that was correct. 30 mins on the net to troubleshoot. On my model, the oven door must be removed to remove the bottom splash shield. Internet to the rescue to show how to remove the oven door. 10 minutes on the 'net, 30 seconds to remove door. Heat shield came out in about a minute. First machine screw that secures the igniter to mounting bracket out in 45 seconds. Second machine screw stripped in two wrench turns. Since the location of the mounting bracket was a cramped space (in a "well"), had to hand hold a hacksaw blade to cut off the head of the stripped machine screw. With only 3/4" of possible travel, this took 90 minutes. Then drill out the remaining shaft of the stripped fastener. The new igniter went in no problem and I used sheet metal screws to reaffix the unit. From what I've seen on the 'net, cheap fasteners that strip is a common fault on GE appliances.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

plug in thermistor when needed

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

After reading reviews about corroded screws causing difficult removal I sprayed penetrating oil prior to installing replacement part. The oven doesn't need to be pulled out to fix. Just carefully pull wires through hole until the locking plug is visible & swap out. Very easy repair.