JGS968BH2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

I called Sears Repair to do the work. Glad I did because there's a lot more than just unscrewing screws...had to use the Dremel because the manufacture stripped one of the screws in assembly that was attached to the ignition part that connects to the burner...

Pull stove forward to access back. Remove center metal panel, 6 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Disconnect igniter connector. Measure resistance, it should be less than 1 ohm. Obtain new igniter. Test new igniter, 0.30 ohms. Remove oven door, see care and cleaning section of owner's manual. Remove burner cover, 2 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Remove two screws holding igniter. Aside: This is the second igniter to be replaced in this stove. The last one was exactly two years ago. Both times a screw snapped. With a small 5" vise grip the leading edge of the screw could be walked out. This time the two screws were replaced with 6-32 x 3/8" hex socket cap screws, split lock washer s under the screw head, and hex nuts holding the igniter in place. Note: All hardware was stainless steel. The burner cover was replaced. Oven door remounted. Igniter connected. Broiler turned on, it ignited. Center metal panel replaced. Stove moved into its nook.

I removed the racks, burner cover, then unscrewed the cover for the starter. Had to get the correct ratchet to remove screws. The hardest part was removing two screws that held the igniter in place. Difficult location to get the tool in. They were also hard to put back. After that it was a matter of pulling the igniter out and disconnecting it. You also have to remove the drawer under the oven so you can unplug the stove.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in

No response from GE website (very disappointing). google "repair GE gas range igniter" and very simple step-by-step instructions...apparently is very common with GE appliances...even mine that was less than 14 months old. Service tech would have charged $300. Did it myself for $80

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.