JGSP48CH1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

1.Removed the oven door. 2. Removed the oven floor panel ( slides right out ). 3. Removed cover plate and and removed one screw holding the igniter in place. 4 was able to pull the wire into the oven and unplug the igniter. Ordered a oven temp sensor but never needed it.

Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

Instead of trying to remove ignitor while mounted to burner, I removed burner/ignitor assembly by detaching it from the oven frame and pulling the ignitor/burner assembly out so connector cleared the access hole. Disconnected and removed whole assembly. Then had easy access to the mounting screws. Removed screws by first spraying threads with WD 40 and waiting. Screws were oxidized so they were damaged when backing them out, as were the threaded mounting holes in the burner ignitor bracket. The screws are not sheet metal as noted in other posts, but rather are 10-32 machine screws. I chased the ignitor mounting bracket threads, then remounted the ignitor with 10-32, 3/8's, cap head, stainless bolts with a stainless star washer (available at any ACE hardware or other similar store) -- that way you don't have to tighten up so tight (just snug them up) -- unless you expect an earthquake every other week. The stainless screws helps retard the corrosion brought on by high heat and any moisture that settles on the bolt threads as the system cools and with subsequent starts.

Pull stove forward to access back. Remove center metal panel, 6 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Disconnect igniter connector. Measure resistance, it should be less than 1 ohm. Obtain new igniter. Test new igniter, 0.30 ohms. Remove oven door, see care and cleaning section of owner's manual. Remove burner cover, 2 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Remove two screws holding igniter. Aside: This is the second igniter to be replaced in this stove. The last one was exactly two years ago. Both times a screw snapped. With a small 5" vise grip the leading edge of the screw could be walked out. This time the two screws were replaced with 6-32 x 3/8" hex socket cap screws, split lock washer s under the screw head, and hex nuts holding the igniter in place. Note: All hardware was stainless steel. The burner cover was replaced. Oven door remounted. Igniter connected. Broiler turned on, it ignited. Center metal panel replaced. Stove moved into its nook.

I called Sears Repair to do the work. Glad I did because there's a lot more than just unscrewing screws...had to use the Dremel because the manufacture stripped one of the screws in assembly that was attached to the ignition part that connects to the burner...