JCS966BD1BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Dean from Elkton, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burned out
Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless
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- Customer:
- Michael from BAY CITY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
inner element not working
opened oven door and removed two 1/4 " screws from range top. lifted range top and propped open like a car hood with a 1" diam dowel rod. marked on new element the wire color locations from old element and removed wires. removed the two small screws and clips that hold the element to the range top and removed element. Matched where the mounting screws locate to the new element. Installed new element in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Norborne, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner burned out
Very easy. Unpluged range from outlet, took two screws from the front under side of the range top, raised cook top up, took off four wires from burner, removed two screws than holds burner on cook top, replaced with new burner, installed two screws that hold burner in place, installed the four wires to burner, lowered cook top back into place replaced two screws that hold cook top down, pluged back into outlet. DONE!
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- Customer:
- Harry from Dills burg, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB1X500D
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bottom Heating element quit working after 30 years
Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.
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- Customer:
- Anthony from Apopka, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10047
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Burner no longer heats
Remove two screws with nut driver that holds range top down. Turn off breaker or unplug before lifting top. Brace top with 2x4. Take picture with cell phone just in case. Orient replacement part with old burner. Remove one wire at a time and install on new burner in corresponding correcting terminal. be sure they are snug. Drop top install nuts . Test! Done! I am not an electrician!!!!!!!! Please do not publish !!!!
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- Customer:
- Eric from SOUTHBURY, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB20T10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Temp probe was defective
Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.
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- Customer:
- Richard from SIMSBURY, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10063
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
burner would switch to full power randomly
Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.
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- Customer:
- kathleen from Wynantskill, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10119
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
cooktop switch broken
Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.
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- Customer:
- Victor from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Repair was slow, due to replacement part was incorrect. Original part had two spring loaded spacers, & holes for them to sit in. The replacement part did not have holes. I was able to drill two holes to make it work.
Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.
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- Customer:
- Joan from SOUTHINGTON, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB25T10027
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Oven lamp globe shattered . Needed a replacement
The oven lamp shattered while cleaning. Easy to replace by hand.
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- Customer:
- robert from FAIRFIELD, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB20T10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven meat probe broken
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
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- Customer:
- Russell from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10043
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Remove and replace Broil (upper) heating element.
Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch).
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!
Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper).
Remove the racks (wire shelves).
Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven..
Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element.
Now reverse the process.
Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off.
Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws.
Replace the wire racks (shelves).
Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper).
Turn the power back on.
Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly.
voila!
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- Customer:
- Frank from PARKER, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB44T10043
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Lower Oven Broiler Stopped Working
Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on
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- Customer:
- Mike from Glencoe, NM
- Parts Used:
- WB23T10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Remove back panel or access sensor, replace sensor and panel
Removed back panel, change out sensor
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Homosassa, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB02X33180
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven will not heat
As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!
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