JCS966BD1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

First, I turned off the power. I removed the fixture that held the bulb and gently used narrow type pliers to pull the old pins out and allowed the broken glass to fall upon a shop towel in the bottom of the oven.

The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gently inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.

Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!

The thry was rusty I took the door out And i slide out the thry it's take five minutes I did it by myself now my oven Look like a new I'm so happy now I get the part quickly thank you

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

replaced Plastic Guides

Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.

lift stove top, 2 undermount screws. Then unplug 4 wires, I did them 1 at a time plugging into new burner as I go so I wouldn't screw up. Take 2 screws out of old burner to stove top, # all around circle put screws in same # on new burner.Done Good experience all the way around. Order delivery and install

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.

The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.