JBP35DIM6WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Luckily I retained the original manual and was able to order the drip pans through your company from the original manufacturer. Be sure range is turned off, lift the burner locking element, then lift the burner a bit. Remove the burner by pulling it, disconnecting it through the opening in the drip pan. Lift out the old drip pan and replace it with the new one. Then reconnect the burner through the opening in the drip pan. Press the burner locking element in place and the job is done

Easy

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

popped the new one on!

First, the part was an EXACT fit - what a relief. Thanks PartSelect! Teh oven door had to be taken apart a bit, but once I found the right nut wrench, it went smoothly. Having another set of hands really helped.

Mice took over trailer, after eliminating mice, and cleaning oven and range thoroughly, I noticed that the only place the mouse urine smell was still coming from was the vent tube. Noticed soiling around tube where it went through and into oven. I removed the center rack, layed some foil to catch any debris that may fall from the tube when it is removed. I removed old vent tube simply by removing the two nut screws on the roof of the oven. I had to pry it out a little bit. I then cut out and soiled insulation with razor knife, I inserted the new vent tube from the inside, and replace 1/4 nut screws and tighten.

Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.

removed 2 screws that hold the cover in place, inserted the new panel at the bottom, pushed top in place and reapplied the 2 screws.

Top front sloping sheet metal panel with all controls and plastic end caps has to come off. Need 2 people, one to hold it while other replaces switch. Problem was getting screw holes on bottom ends lined up and cuts from sheet metal edges. Ten minutes to get it apart, 40 to get it back together. New switch works fine.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.

the part was an exact fit. the instalation of the product was very easy. I just removed the 4 hex bolts and 2 star head bolts and reattached. Instalation took about 10 minutes.