JGS968BEK1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

No response from GE website (very disappointing). google "repair GE gas range igniter" and very simple step-by-step instructions...apparently is very common with GE appliances...even mine that was less than 14 months old. Service tech would have charged $300. Did it myself for $80

reinstalled new one. just a little better than than the warped one.

plug in thermistor when needed

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

I removed the racks, burner cover, then unscrewed the cover for the starter. Had to get the correct ratchet to remove screws. The hardest part was removing two screws that held the igniter in place. Difficult location to get the tool in. They were also hard to put back. After that it was a matter of pulling the igniter out and disconnecting it. You also have to remove the drawer under the oven so you can unplug the stove.

Read the experience of others on this website with the same problem. I knew exactly what to expect and it all went as the dozen previous oven repair experts had said. I can add my name to the list of experts. The two screws attaching the igniter to the bracket twisted off exactly like everyone else experienced. GE really should look at developing a better attachment. My only problem was because my drill was larger than the bottom of the oven. I had to drill the holes on an angle. One of the holes was wallowed out more than the other. I had to use two different size screws and they were more difficult to screw in. Bottom line; I saved money, the oven works, my wife is happy, so I'm happy.

pulled out appl,removed door,racks,lifted oven bottom to remove,removed both oven and broiler ignitors---went to back of appl to remove gas control valve and replaced--used old oven ignitor in broiler(took chance it would work-it did!)installed new ignitor in oven--tested perfectly--point of info if you have an oversize or dancing flame in oven or broiler--remove flame tube and with 1/2 inch open wrench tighten orfice all the way until it stops--don't force or over tighten-- (the air shutter should open all the way)--flame should be about an 1 inch with white tips--adjust as needed-overall repair including adjustments took about an hour-hope this helps--and i'm not a professional repairman

Replaced burner gaskets.