P2B912SEM3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.

replaced old with new.

Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.

the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.

I have requested this part with the original p/n WB03K10303 and
p/n AP396896. Each times I received a different part than part I ordered. Has this parts been revised? The shaft of the knob is to to small
to to slide over burner controller stem.

It only required placing the new burner in the proper location.

I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.

remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.

had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

First I removed the botoom drawer.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.

Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.

The repair was pretty straight forward. I simply removed the old igniter, then I snipped the wires. Using the included wire nuts I spliced the old wires with the new. The longest time was spent looking for my wire strippers. I must say that the customer service was very quick and responsive. I received the part but it was broken. One call to customer service and the new part arrived the next day. Great job!!

Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.

Easy