JGSP28DEN2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

After reading reviews about corroded screws causing difficult removal I sprayed penetrating oil prior to installing replacement part. The oven doesn't need to be pulled out to fix. Just carefully pull wires through hole until the locking plug is visible & swap out. Very easy repair.

Replaced old burner element with new, easy

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.

This was and always will be an easy fix, all I have to do is get my ice pick and pick the broken rubber part stuck in the hole if it does not break clean and fall out. Not much more I can say about this simple problem.

I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!

Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.

I removed the racks, burner cover, then unscrewed the cover for the starter. Had to get the correct ratchet to remove screws. The hardest part was removing two screws that held the igniter in place. Difficult location to get the tool in. They were also hard to put back. After that it was a matter of pulling the igniter out and disconnecting it. You also have to remove the drawer under the oven so you can unplug the stove.

pulled out appl,removed door,racks,lifted oven bottom to remove,removed both oven and broiler ignitors---went to back of appl to remove gas control valve and replaced--used old oven ignitor in broiler(took chance it would work-it did!)installed new ignitor in oven--tested perfectly--point of info if you have an oversize or dancing flame in oven or broiler--remove flame tube and with 1/2 inch open wrench tighten orfice all the way until it stops--don't force or over tighten-- (the air shutter should open all the way)--flame should be about an 1 inch with white tips--adjust as needed-overall repair including adjustments took about an hour-hope this helps--and i'm not a professional repairman

Read the experience of others on this website with the same problem. I knew exactly what to expect and it all went as the dozen previous oven repair experts had said. I can add my name to the list of experts. The two screws attaching the igniter to the bracket twisted off exactly like everyone else experienced. GE really should look at developing a better attachment. My only problem was because my drill was larger than the bottom of the oven. I had to drill the holes on an angle. One of the holes was wallowed out more than the other. I had to use two different size screws and they were more difficult to screw in. Bottom line; I saved money, the oven works, my wife is happy, so I'm happy.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

Owners manual provided no help. Thankfully, the internet did. Internet convinced me the problem was the igniter, and with hindsight that was correct. 30 mins on the net to troubleshoot. On my model, the oven door must be removed to remove the bottom splash shield. Internet to the rescue to show how to remove the oven door. 10 minutes on the 'net, 30 seconds to remove door. Heat shield came out in about a minute. First machine screw that secures the igniter to mounting bracket out in 45 seconds. Second machine screw stripped in two wrench turns. Since the location of the mounting bracket was a cramped space (in a "well"), had to hand hold a hacksaw blade to cut off the head of the stripped machine screw. With only 3/4" of possible travel, this took 90 minutes. Then drill out the remaining shaft of the stripped fastener. The new igniter went in no problem and I used sheet metal screws to reaffix the unit. From what I've seen on the 'net, cheap fasteners that strip is a common fault on GE appliances.

remove oven door of course you cut gas and power off first tried to get screws out of igniter the heads broke off had to take cover off to get screws out slide range out of cabinet take back off to unplug igniter then reassemble