JGSP28DEN1WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Woodinville, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB02X33180
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Our bottom drawer support broke and the bottom drawer was canted
Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw
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- Customer:
- Johnette from Baltimore, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no racks to oven
Easily glide in.
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- Customer:
- Sandra from Watertown, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB02T10461
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the grate foots came off
put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.
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- Customer:
- David from Lisle, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Steven from Lansdale, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB02X33180
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hard to move drawer in and out because the rear drawer supports broke off.
Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.
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- Customer:
- Damaris from Easton, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Missing oven rack
I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.
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- Customer:
- Vicki from Irvine, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced damaged oven rack
I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.
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- Customer:
- Barbara from Bethesda, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB04T10050
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
gasket on door was brittle
I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!
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- Customer:
- Douglas from Knoxville, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB13X46909
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The spark module would constantly spark
I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.
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- Customer:
- glen from felch, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
uneven flame and sputtered, burner was not useable
Simple to correct 1. lift off grate 2. lift off burner cover 3. lift off old burner. 4. replace burner, cover and grate. took 10 seconds. burner works perfect
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- Customer:
- JOHN from FRESNO, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB13T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
The Oven would not light, but the Broiler would light
Read the experience of others on this website with the same problem. I knew exactly what to expect and it all went as the dozen previous oven repair experts had said. I can add my name to the list of experts. The two screws attaching the igniter to the bracket twisted off exactly like everyone else experienced. GE really should look at developing a better attachment. My only problem was because my drill was larger than the bottom of the oven. I had to drill the holes on an angle. One of the holes was wallowed out more than the other. I had to use two different size screws and they were more difficult to screw in. Bottom line; I saved money, the oven works, my wife is happy, so I'm happy.
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- Customer:
- CELESTE from VAIL, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB13T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Oven would not heat
I removed the racks, burner cover, then unscrewed the cover for the starter. Had to get the correct ratchet to remove screws. The hardest part was removing two screws that held the igniter in place. Difficult location to get the tool in. They were also hard to put back. After that it was a matter of pulling the igniter out and disconnecting it. You also have to remove the drawer under the oven so you can unplug the stove.
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- Customer:
- daniel from gap, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
f-2 or f-3
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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- Customer:
- James from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB13T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Ignitor burned out.
Instead of trying to remove ignitor while mounted to burner, I removed burner/ignitor assembly by detaching it from the oven frame and pulling the ignitor/burner assembly out so connector cleared the access hole. Disconnected and removed whole assembly. Then had easy access to the mounting screws. Removed screws by first spraying threads with WD 40 and waiting. Screws were oxidized so they were damaged when backing them out, as were the threaded mounting holes in the burner ignitor bracket. The screws are not sheet metal as noted in other posts, but rather are 10-32 machine screws. I chased the ignitor mounting bracket threads, then remounted the ignitor with 10-32, 3/8's, cap head, stainless bolts with a stainless star washer (available at any ACE hardware or other similar store) -- that way you don't have to tighten up so tight (just snug them up) -- unless you expect an earthquake every other week. The stainless screws helps retard the corrosion brought on by high heat and any moisture that settles on the bolt threads as the system cools and with subsequent starts.
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