JCSP46DP2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the cooktop from the countertop and propped it up with 2 1x2's on each end. I removed the Torx screws that hold the glass in place. I set the glass aside. I then removed the screws holding the cover for the switches. I set the large central burner aside. I had to spray the screws holding the switch cover in place to loosen them. I then removed the defective left front switch and replaced the it with the GE Parts Select replacement switch. I then put everything back together. This Utube video was helpful although not my model number https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmcUqpHNj3Q

Turned power off to oven
Unscrewed broiler nuts (total of 4)
Pulled Broiler out from back of stove
Disconnected wires
Reconnected wire
Remounted broiler and replaced bolts
Turned power back on

The oven lamp shattered while cleaning. Easy to replace by hand.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Removed back panel, change out sensor

Followed GE repair video

Ordered the dual replacement. I am 76 so I had someone else do it. It took him about 15 minutes. Just pulled the oven forward about 8" so he could lift the top up. 2 Screws to release the top. Then just removed the part and plugged in the replacement. Rescrewed the top screws and pushed the oven back.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.

Replaced it

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Ordered new probe

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.