JB640DN1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

Threw the breakers off for the range. Removed the 2 screws on element connection end. Pulled element out 3 to 4 inches being careful not to scrape insulation on 220 wires. Had wife hold element from moving as I wiggled off the pair of wires from the element connectors. Next made sure wires were clipped in wooden sprung closepin to prevent slippage back into the rear of the hole in the oven. Next removed the screw holding the thermo lead being carefull not to kink or twist it. Removed the final 2 screws from the front hangers and removed the old unit from the cavity.

Placed the new unit in the cavity and slid the front clip backwards 3 inches to allow work romm when the unit was attached. Doing it this way allows the element to float so you have both hands to reconnect the 220 wires. After reconnecting then rescrew the thermo to the connection plate and carefully slide the unit backwards in the front clips allowing the wire connections to be put where they belong without touching the range sides or rear panel. Replace the final 2 screws when the unit is seated properly in the back wall.

Flip the breakers to on and test your handywork. You should see a glow off of the element in 30 seconds or less. Be aware a small bit of production lubricant may burn off with the first heating of the unit. No worry as it is a small wisp.

Yeah, so I didn't read the manual the first time we ran the self-clean cycle on the oven. Something about taking the racks out. So these were my little reminder to never do that again. The old racks came out; the new ones went in. Ten seconds. On to the next embarrassment...

the chief of the house(not me) did not let the oven finish self cleaning process and that's why this happend.So for everybody - let it finish you'll get no trouble.But repair itself was easy.1-open the oven and take a racks out; 2-unscrew a support of the element on back wall(2 screws);3pull of the wall and unscrew back panel(5screws);4-unplug connectors and pull the element out of the oven.5-installation is the same but backward 4 to 1.It took me...think less then 4 minutes (I went for a beer).DIY and U save a tons.And BTW those guys from Part Select - excelent service.I'm glad that I found a website like that.It's all ready in my favorites.Thanx guys for quick and very good service.It came what I order and it came in 2(two)days.Keep in touch

The heating element in my electric oven cracked, I had something boil over onto the element, cracking it to the point of it sparking. First time I had ever seen this before. The appliance repair shop was going to charge me a small fortune to fix this so I ordered the part online, which it was 10.00 cheaper from here than from any other site. It got to me quickly and took me less than 15 minutes to repair and everything works great. All I had to do was unbolt 2 screws with a ratchet, unplug the element, plug in the new one, and bolt it back up and I was done!

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel

Removed control knob. Removed back panel (3) screws with a nut driver. Removed two screws holding the burner switch. Followed the wiring exactly the way it was on the bad burner switch. Don’t forget to take a picture of the wiring before you start in case you get lost. Took about five minutes to change the switch. My wife is very happy with her operational front burner.

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

1. Pulled the stove out about 6-8 inches. 2. Opened oven door and removed 2 screws to free up stove top. 3. Lifted stove top to access another panel. 4. Removed about 6 screws allowing removal of sheet metal cover above Latch/lever mechanism. 5. Removed 2 screws at top center "boiler plate" to allow removal of Latch/Lever mechanism. 6. Slipped off electrical connector from microswitch mounted on Latch/Lever mechanism. 7. Then removed old mechanism 8. Set new mechanism in place, re-attaching electrical connector onto microswitch. 9. Then with my finger, I bored down a few inches through the insulation to make sure the base of the new Latch/Lever mechanism was in contact with the oven at the base of the insulation. 10. I replaced the 2 screws at the top center "boiler plate." 11. I reattached the sheet metal cover with 6 screws, making sure holes were lining up. 12. Finally, I lowered the stove top and reattached the remaining 2 screws that secure the stove top. It was all pretty easy, but I did not see a prop (like some models have) that would hold up the stove top while performing the unscrewing, screwing, removing, replacing, etc., so I used a piece of wood to rest the stove top on, and lifted it with my left hand while I did the "operation" with my right hand.

The repair took Less than 20 Mins. So easy anyone that is handy should be able to do this with ease. And PartSelect is great to order from Order was placed on a Weekend and order was at my home on Tues! Thats a one day shipping and it was a ground shipment!!! Great Job PartSelect!!!!!! Mark

When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove the racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...