J2BP85SEL3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I deturmined that the flame starter was not pulling enough amps to open the gas valve (safety valve) . pulled two hand screws and removed floor of oven exposing the flame bar and flame starter. removed two screws on flame starter. removed lower pan drawer and disconected the electrical plug for flame starter. replaced in reverse order. easy.

I found that it was a little easier to pull out the stove to do the electrical connections. First I pulled out the stove being very careful not to bend the gas line. I pulled out the wires and disconnected them. I removed the 2 screws that hold the igniter and compared it to the new one it matched. I hooked it back up with the 2 screws then did the wire connections pushed the stove back carefully and tested the new igniter it worked like new no more microwave dinners thanks parts select .com

Removed the screws that held the shield in place. Then unplugged the igniter and removed the 2 screws that hold igniter in place. I had to cut the connector off the new igniter and wire nut the old connector on because of a different connector.
I then put everything back together and ooolaalaa, it worked!!!!!!!

Thanks for the quick service,
Tom

Unplugged the stove and pulled it out from the wall. Took the metal shield off the back of stove held by 2 screws. Unplugged the Molex connector for the igniter. unscrewed the round metal shield covering the opening where the igniter wires run to the back of the stove. Removed the 2 screws that held igniter bracket to the burner. Next, I pulled the wires and Molex connector through the opening. Installed new igniter in the reverse order. Be very careful with new igniter as they are very fragile and can break easily.

It only required placing the new burner in the proper location.

To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.

After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.

Installation of the new one was simply the reverse.

Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.

The oven now works as it should.

First I removed the botoom drawer.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.

remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.

the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.

This surface burner is generically made for multiple manufacturer's stoves so the gas tip does not align with this model precisely. In order to make the gas tip aligns, one needs to bend the aluminum tube to an angle where it would fit to the stove housing or otherwise the gas outlet would not release the gas exactly to the right spot. This requires using either a professional aluminum bending tool or we will need to manually bend the tube slightly without causing kinking on the tube. Putting kinking on the tube would cause blockage of gas. I think your website should publish this so whoever buying this would know the risk as aluminum is a very soft metal and you can easily wreck the tube wasting the time and money. Other than that, the item works quite well.

I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.

Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.

Took 5 minutes to repair easy peasy??

Ordered part from customer friendly Part Select and received the replacement part within a few days, and installed it promptly. Wife is happy and stopped grumbling about oven bottom unsightly defect! Small price to pay for a happy wife! Ernie

replaced old with new.