J765*03 General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.

Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven. I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!

Unplugged the range, took old elements out, put new ones in. Couldn't have been easier and for the total cost of about $60; I have a working oven again. A LOT cheaper than a new $600 range!!

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Identify oven breaker and turn off power before starting. Opened oven door. Removed oven racks. Use 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove the 2 bolts holding heating element mounting bracket at rear base of oven. Carefully pull element out of installation mount to remove the 2 machine screws that attach electrical wires to the heating element. Reattach wires in same order as original element. Then reinstall new element in reverse order of removal. Took all of maybe 15 minutes! Excellent OEM Parts!

The first thing I did wrong was order the wrong part. Then later I did find the Model number on the side of the bottom drawer. I reordered the right part and turned off the electrical breaker. Removed the old element. I then installed the element in the oven with 2 screw nuts and pulled out the stove, took off the back panel and slipped the wire nuts onto the element. Very simple. I am really thankful there is a place to order the part and it came the next day after I ordered it. WHOW!

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

Very easy repair. 2 hex head screws to take the heating element out. Then 2 more slot head screws for the wire connections. Perfect fit and operation of the new heating element.

Couldn't be a much simpler repair. You pull the old element off by removing two screws. Then you slide the old element toward you several inches and remove the two screws holding the wires that are attached to the old element. To replace, just do everything in reverse. One cautionary measure, even though the oven is off, there is still a small amount of electricity going to the element. Turn the stove off at the circuit breaker, or unplug the stove before you attempt the repair.

Unscrewed the element from the oven,disconnected the two screws for the electrical and reverse the procedure to install new element. Took all of about 10 minutes.

It was so simple, I turned off the breker to the oven, unscrewed two screws holding in the element, pulled out until the wire connetion was exposed. I unscrewed those two screws, then placed the replacement part, put the two screws on, pushed back the wiring and insulation.Final step was screwing two screws to hold the unit to the oven back. So simple! The part was ordered regular mail and still was here in 2 days. Will recommend to friends for sure!

Using a nut driver, I removed the two screws holding the baking element to the firewall of the oven. I then pulled the baking element out exposing the two wires connected to it. I then used the same nutdriver to remove the nuts and detached the old element. I then connected the new element to the wires, pushed the wires inside the firewall and reattached the element to the firewall of the oven.
The time it took was literally a few minutes. Works like a new oven!