JGSP48SH2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I did find instruction in the Q&A on how to to change the part was for an older oven.

Here are the instructions that matched my oven model "JGSP42SET1SS"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHg-O1-NnXM

I also had issues where the connector for the new part would not come through the hole in the back of the oven. I used a shoestring around the connector so I would have a good grip on it when I disconnected the old igniter.This allowed me to have a good grip to reconnect to the new igniter.

While you have this apart I would also recommend that you remove the burner and blow out any material that may have accumulated over the years,

Flip toggles to release the oven door. Pull up on oven door to remove. Put door aside. Lift enamel bottom. Slide strait out. Remove aluminum shielding from around the igniter. Loosen igniter, unplug the igniter. Remove burner cowling. Plug in new igniter. Attach cowling to new igniter. Screw it all back in place. Stuff wiring connected back through the protective hole. Depress close door button and test. It takes about 10-15 seconds to ignite. Reinstall aluminum protector. Re install bottom enamel piece. Carfully slide oven door back on pegs and flip toggles to lock. Have a big glass of water and yell, Honey I fixed the oven!!

This went pretty smoothly. Watch the video and just follow along step-by-step and it goes well. It would have only taken about 30-45 minutes (even being careful and slow) but I ended up placing the glass twice (be very careful and triple check that all the insulation gets poked under the housing and none is sticking out). The first time I had a small piece sticking out. (Use gloves for this part so your hands don't itch). The second time I needed to redo part of it is I forgot one of the spacers on the door handle and had to get that in there so the handle worked properly. I also took the time to clean the oven while the door was off so that took some time. Total I probably had 1.5-2 hours into this project but at least half of that was me cleaning and being fussy. This is an easy repair. I'm not a confident repair person and this wasn't difficult. It was a little time consuming but well worth the cost vs calling a repair person or buying a new appliance. You do need to have a specialty star head on a screwdriver but my simple tool kit had all the tools I needed. The oven has been working great since the repair.

Replaced Spark Module and adjusted igniters

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

replaced Plastic Guides

open the oven door (remove) ,disassemble the igniter ,replace the igniter .

Easy

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

there were no grate pads so it was easy to add them.

Nothing technical.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

I replaced the regulator because it would close off when not in use. The regulator would not allow gas to flow for 15-45 seconds after 1 or more valves were opened. Everything functioned fine after the gas started flowing, but after a few minutes of having all burners off, you would have to wait for the regulator to open up when you needed to cook again. It was not the biggest problem in the world, but my wife complained like it was. The fix was easy and not to expensive, especially when you consider how much she was willing to pay the repair man. Hands on work was about 10 minutes. Gathering tools and teaching my son what I was doing took up the bulk of the time.

Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!