JBP78BY3 General Electric Range - Instructions

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Locate breaker box and turn off breaker to stove. Removed the two screw in front that hold the top in place. Raised the top and supported it with the box the new burner came in. Removed two screws that held the burner in place and the 5 wires one at a time an installed them on the new burner. Put new burner in place and installed two mounting screws. Reinstalled the two screws in the front to hold the top in place then turned the breaker back on and tested burner. Worked great. Received part in 2 days.

Remove the front panel, at which time the spring loaded door slammed closed while the paned and handle were in my hand. Fortunately I had a star bit to fit the screw holding the door and panel together.The parts should come with 2 screws since the part has holes for 2. note: the factory installed handle only had 1 screw in each side.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?

slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.

I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.

I disassembled parts and panels from the oven door as needed to remove the handle end caps. It was not clear to me what the best disassembly method was, because I used a different method when assessing the problem as when I performed the actual part replacement. The quickest way is to take the top two screws on the inside oven panel loose, but leave them in their retainers. Remove the side trim screws on the plastic upper side pieces. Remove the four sheet metal screws on the bottom of the door, located the far right and left (two on each side). Carefully split the inner and outer oven panels to access the mounting screws for the oven handle. Replace the oven handle and reverse the disassembly process.

Required new light lens for oven this type has five (5) of them; only the oven temp light lens was damaged. Ordered from Parts Select.com received item fast in seven days. removed rear guard plate, than oven temperture switch than slid the neon light switch off of the light lens.Lens is removed from the front panel. Installation is reverse order.

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

The repair was quite simple. I pulled the range away from the wall. Removved 6 screws from the back panel with a nut driver. I the disconnected the wires from the clock control and then removed the 4 screws securing the control board. I loosened the faceplate from the old control with a hair dryer and removed it with a knife. I afixed the faceplate to the new control with two sided tape. Connected the wires to the new control and secured it with the 4 screws. The only problem one might have is the instructions referenced black and purple wires whereas mine were red and blue respectively. Reattached the back panel with the six screws and plugged the power plug back in. Moved the range back against the wall and tested the oven which tested perfectly. Note please disconnect power before proceeding with the installation of the new part.

removed old handles and slid door apart align new handles and re-installed new handles. One person job.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

Took the upper back covering off, disconnected the clock control. The only problem is the replacement didn't have the same connections so I was able to pull up the replacement number of wb27x10311 and asked for a diagram which told me exactly where to plug each of the red, white, blue and yellow wires, what a relief! To my amazement I fixed my "old" stove for less than $160, if I had called GE to service it, I'm sure I would have been looking at a $400 bill. This was the way to go, Thank You!