PGS908SEM1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

1.Removed the oven door. 2. Removed the oven floor panel ( slides right out ). 3. Removed cover plate and and removed one screw holding the igniter in place. 4 was able to pull the wire into the oven and unplug the igniter. Ordered a oven temp sensor but never needed it.

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

I removed the racks, burner cover, then unscrewed the cover for the starter. Had to get the correct ratchet to remove screws. The hardest part was removing two screws that held the igniter in place. Difficult location to get the tool in. They were also hard to put back. After that it was a matter of pulling the igniter out and disconnecting it. You also have to remove the drawer under the oven so you can unplug the stove.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

pulled out appl,removed door,racks,lifted oven bottom to remove,removed both oven and broiler ignitors---went to back of appl to remove gas control valve and replaced--used old oven ignitor in broiler(took chance it would work-it did!)installed new ignitor in oven--tested perfectly--point of info if you have an oversize or dancing flame in oven or broiler--remove flame tube and with 1/2 inch open wrench tighten orfice all the way until it stops--don't force or over tighten-- (the air shutter should open all the way)--flame should be about an 1 inch with white tips--adjust as needed-overall repair including adjustments took about an hour-hope this helps--and i'm not a professional repairman

Instead of trying to remove ignitor while mounted to burner, I removed burner/ignitor assembly by detaching it from the oven frame and pulling the ignitor/burner assembly out so connector cleared the access hole. Disconnected and removed whole assembly. Then had easy access to the mounting screws. Removed screws by first spraying threads with WD 40 and waiting. Screws were oxidized so they were damaged when backing them out, as were the threaded mounting holes in the burner ignitor bracket. The screws are not sheet metal as noted in other posts, but rather are 10-32 machine screws. I chased the ignitor mounting bracket threads, then remounted the ignitor with 10-32, 3/8's, cap head, stainless bolts with a stainless star washer (available at any ACE hardware or other similar store) -- that way you don't have to tighten up so tight (just snug them up) -- unless you expect an earthquake every other week. The stainless screws helps retard the corrosion brought on by high heat and any moisture that settles on the bolt threads as the system cools and with subsequent starts.

Owners manual provided no help. Thankfully, the internet did. Internet convinced me the problem was the igniter, and with hindsight that was correct. 30 mins on the net to troubleshoot. On my model, the oven door must be removed to remove the bottom splash shield. Internet to the rescue to show how to remove the oven door. 10 minutes on the 'net, 30 seconds to remove door. Heat shield came out in about a minute. First machine screw that secures the igniter to mounting bracket out in 45 seconds. Second machine screw stripped in two wrench turns. Since the location of the mounting bracket was a cramped space (in a "well"), had to hand hold a hacksaw blade to cut off the head of the stripped machine screw. With only 3/4" of possible travel, this took 90 minutes. Then drill out the remaining shaft of the stripped fastener. The new igniter went in no problem and I used sheet metal screws to reaffix the unit. From what I've seen on the 'net, cheap fasteners that strip is a common fault on GE appliances.

remove oven door of course you cut gas and power off first tried to get screws out of igniter the heads broke off had to take cover off to get screws out slide range out of cabinet take back off to unplug igniter then reassemble

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

Odered igniter from part select, it arrived the next day. Removed oven door removed heat shield on bottom of oven and there it was. Removed the two screws pulled the wires till the connector came through, unpluged connector, plugged in new igniter, repaced everything and Bam, we were cooking. Did not even have to pull oven out from the wall. Super easy.

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

After reading reviews about corroded screws causing difficult removal I sprayed penetrating oil prior to installing replacement part. The oven doesn't need to be pulled out to fix. Just carefully pull wires through hole until the locking plug is visible & swap out. Very easy repair.

I had read the customers reviews and expected that I'd most likely break the attaching screws. My trick was to not just unscrew then all the way out but to turn it a half a turn and then screw it back in. Then out again a little more then last time and back a little. Didn't break a thing. I did have to move the stove out to get to the plug but that was just enough for me to get my arms in there.