JBP90GS1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Shut power off. Removed two outer screws, pulled heating element forward and removed two more screws. Ordered part and it arrived in three days. Installed in reverse order of removal. Easy fix. Cost was reasonable.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

1. Cut power off. 2. Remove old element, make sure you do not lose the screws, pull the connecting posts out and we used strings on posts so they could not get lost in the wall. 3. We then replaced the new element with little of no problems, it took approximately 30-45 minutes for the whole process.

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

Removed 2 screws (with 1/4" nut driver) on bracket holding heat element at back of oven. Pull element forward to expose the 2 wires connected to element, remove screws on wire corrections with flat head screw driver. Remove element from oven......Reverse the steps to install new heat element.....very easy job....except I cleaned the oven while I had the element out of the oven.

took old element out , put new element in.very easy.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

First shut off power to the range in the electrical
breaker box (its the 220 breaker) as marked.
Remove the oven door ( open part way and lift up) the
door will come off.
Remove the 2 screws that the element is attached to the
back of the oven wall. Pull element out part way and
disconnect the 2 wires. Take out element.
The new element had different connections so I cut off
the clips stripped the wires and attached to the element
connection . The element had connections that this was
possible. Push wires back into oven wall and install the
new element with the 2 screws that were removed. You
could also put on clips to the 2 wires that attach to the
element if so desired. (Eye hole clips.)

At 76 I no longer do my repairs so I asked my daughter's friend to do it for me.

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER before doing anything even if oven is not turned on! If I hadn't checked voltage with tester before starting I would have made a shocking discovery.
1) unscrewed shield cover to get get at the element screws.
2) unscrewed element screws and removed old element - pulling connecting wires out about 3 inches
3)attached new element to connecting wires (2 screws)
4) pushed new element into place and reattached element connector plate to wall of oven
5) reattached shield cover to wall of oven

Firs I shut the power off to the range. Then I removed the bottom oven rack, then removed the two screws holding the element in place. I pulled the element out about 3 inches to pull the connecting wires off. However, when I pulled the element towards me a lost on of the connecting wires that attached to the element. I then had to pull the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel.I then fed the new element into the wholes from the inside of the range and having the back panel removed gave me full access for reconnecting the element wires. I put the back cover panel into place , put the bottom oven rack in and that was it. I was done with the repair. I turned the power back on and everything worked fine. I would recommend removing the back cover panel prior to trying to remove the element. This will save you some time and give you full access to the wiring before attempting to remove the bake element.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.