JBP63BB1AD General Electric Range - Instructions

the hardest part about this install was removing the glass from the channels. it seemed someone at the factory thought it would be a good idea to glue the panel into the receiver channels. they were wrong. it's supposed to be a floating panel. all you need to do is remove the entire door by lifting it at a slight angle off of its carrier arms. shake out and vacuum any loose glass, but please be careful. just because it's supposed to be safety glass doesn't mean it won't still cut you. take a straight blade screw driver and dislodge any stubborn remnants from the channels. completely remove the bottom channel. with your door in an upside down position, insert the replacement panel into the top channel, making sure you have it facing in the right direction and that the window lines up with the door window. place the lower channel on the exposed end of the panel. make sure both channels completely receive the panel. center the panel in the opening and carefully replace the screws in the lower channel. do not over tighten. turn your door right side up and re-install on the carrier arms. nice job. you just saved yourself a ton of cash. took me all of ten minutes. shouldn't take you a whole lot longer.

I was very impressed how quickly the package arrived. I would you your company again. I found you with a google search.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

This was so easy. First pull stove out and disconnect plug in from the wall. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new one in reverse order.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

I did not know what kind of tool was needed to remove the screws so I asked at the hardware store. When i said the screw was star shaped, he sold me torque wrench with multiple heads. First I removed the screw holding the broken handle in place. I cleaned surfaces. Next I attempted to put the handle in place on the horizontal bar and then put the screw into the opening. That did not work. I jiggled the handle for a while but could not get the pegs into the holes. Finally, I just held the handle in place and began to turn the screw and the handle slid into place as the screw got tighter.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

Replace part an wires

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

When I pulled the old element out only one of the wires was visible, the other wire was still connected and after pulling a few times it came out , but the wire connector wasnt visible and I had to dig around in the small opening to find it (2 hours worth of digging and pulling) I finally got a hold of the wire and pulled it through and was able to connect it to the element, had to bend the metal around the opening to be able to get my finger in there and find the wire, The screws that hold the element in place wernt the same as the original so i just have it pushed up in place but it seems to work ok , took way longer than i thought it would.

I turned the power off to the stove. I removed the 4 screws from the back. I took the 2 screws out of the old control to8 to give me a reference for the wires. I then disconnected each wire from the old part and directly to the new part. I then turned the power on before I put the stove back, and as I flipped the breaker, my wife yelled at me that she just saw fire come out of the back. I thought that was interesting because there just went $105 up in smoke. I turned the power off and went to look at the damage. After searching over all the parts and not finding any burnt areas, I had my wife turn on the power while I looked for the problem. I located the problem at the power box where the stove is connected to the wall. When I pulled the stove out it pulled one of the wires out of the wire nut and caused it to hit the metal box and when the power came back on, it melted the wire nut because of the loose wire. I replaced the wire nut and reconnected the wires securely and tried turning the power on again, and the part worked just like new. Be careful not to pull loose any wires.

Got all my parts and tools ready. Sat on a stool in front of oven. Swapped out old with new. Not bad at all.