JB900BK6BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

1.Disconnect the power cord. 2.Remove two screws pull the element out. 3.Disconnect the wires attach to element. 4. Install the new element connecting the wires. 5. Align element with holes and tighten screws. 6. Plug in power cord and begin to cook.

Had to remove rear cover to connect wires, removing them from the front caused the wires to fall into rear.

Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!

Remove the top back panel to expose the switch. Remove the switch knob & mounting bezel and then unscrew the 2 mounting screws from the front. Replace the wires one by one and follow the enclosed directions in the event that this is an upgrade for an older switch. Remount the switch from the front and replace the back panel.

Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.

Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.

Unplug stove. Remove two screws holding down cooktop located on oven side just under cooktop front edge. Lift cooktop and prop up exposing underside. Suggest taking phone picture, making drawing or labeling of wire connections of the affected element. Use pliers to pull wire terminal clips off element blade connectors.The underside of element frame pans have number scale at the peripheries. Remove the single screw of clip mount on old pan and remove old burner. Transfer the old mounting hardware and clips to the new element pan by installing them at the corresponding number locations. Remount new burner by loosening that single screw clip to allow easier install and positioning. Tighten screw. Reconnect wires to corresponding blades. Lower cooktop. I plugged stove in to test at this point (optional). Re-install the two screws located on ovenside cooktop edge. Plug in stove. Complete!

First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceramic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

I didn't know anything about this repair, other than I was replacing a part, so it never occurred to me that I needed to make sure there was no power to the oven. When I pulled the element out, there was a large spark. I flipped the breaker off, then finished the R&R.

Make sure you turn power off at the breaker, then replace the element.

Tim

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. ordered the part and connected the element back to the two wires replaced the two screws plugged in the stove turned on the oven and we were back in business,

First, pulled out the old heating element and all the peices that were left after it fell apart. Since when you pull out the old one, the wires it connects to tend to recess back into the oven wall, I had to pull out the oven and take the back cover off in order to push the wires and connectors back through the receptacle in the oven. This was really easy as you only have to remove 5 screws from the middle panel on the back of the oven rather than the entire oven back. Once the wires were back through, I just plugged in the new unit. The oven works just like new now. I'm sure I was able to save between $75 to $100 just for the service call by doing this myself.

removed two screws that hold the element in place and then removed the access rear panel it was much easier to disconnect the element than have to stick my head in the oven to gain access.time :15 minutes.

This was a very simple procedure. I removed the 2 screws in the oven itself (holding the element in place), then pushed the element through the back of the oven so the wires were exposed, then slipped off the wires, the male end from the female end, I then removed the entire element. I put the new element in the over, re-attached the wires, put the screws back in place, replaced the cover, and the oven was as good as new.