JGS968BH3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I called Sears Repair to do the work. Glad I did because there's a lot more than just unscrewing screws...had to use the Dremel because the manufacture stripped one of the screws in assembly that was attached to the ignition part that connects to the burner...

Odered igniter from part select, it arrived the next day. Removed oven door removed heat shield on bottom of oven and there it was. Removed the two screws pulled the wires till the connector came through, unpluged connector, plugged in new igniter, repaced everything and Bam, we were cooking. Did not even have to pull oven out from the wall. Super easy.

No response from GE website (very disappointing). google "repair GE gas range igniter" and very simple step-by-step instructions...apparently is very common with GE appliances...even mine that was less than 14 months old. Service tech would have charged $300. Did it myself for $80

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

I had read the customers reviews and expected that I'd most likely break the attaching screws. My trick was to not just unscrew then all the way out but to turn it a half a turn and then screw it back in. Then out again a little more then last time and back a little. Didn't break a thing. I did have to move the stove out to get to the plug but that was just enough for me to get my arms in there.

Owners manual provided no help. Thankfully, the internet did. Internet convinced me the problem was the igniter, and with hindsight that was correct. 30 mins on the net to troubleshoot. On my model, the oven door must be removed to remove the bottom splash shield. Internet to the rescue to show how to remove the oven door. 10 minutes on the 'net, 30 seconds to remove door. Heat shield came out in about a minute. First machine screw that secures the igniter to mounting bracket out in 45 seconds. Second machine screw stripped in two wrench turns. Since the location of the mounting bracket was a cramped space (in a "well"), had to hand hold a hacksaw blade to cut off the head of the stripped machine screw. With only 3/4" of possible travel, this took 90 minutes. Then drill out the remaining shaft of the stripped fastener. The new igniter went in no problem and I used sheet metal screws to reaffix the unit. From what I've seen on the 'net, cheap fasteners that strip is a common fault on GE appliances.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

plug in thermistor when needed

Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.

After reading reviews about corroded screws causing difficult removal I sprayed penetrating oil prior to installing replacement part. The oven doesn't need to be pulled out to fix. Just carefully pull wires through hole until the locking plug is visible & swap out. Very easy repair.

remove oven door of course you cut gas and power off first tried to get screws out of igniter the heads broke off had to take cover off to get screws out slide range out of cabinet take back off to unplug igniter then reassemble

Instead of trying to remove ignitor while mounted to burner, I removed burner/ignitor assembly by detaching it from the oven frame and pulling the ignitor/burner assembly out so connector cleared the access hole. Disconnected and removed whole assembly. Then had easy access to the mounting screws. Removed screws by first spraying threads with WD 40 and waiting. Screws were oxidized so they were damaged when backing them out, as were the threaded mounting holes in the burner ignitor bracket. The screws are not sheet metal as noted in other posts, but rather are 10-32 machine screws. I chased the ignitor mounting bracket threads, then remounted the ignitor with 10-32, 3/8's, cap head, stainless bolts with a stainless star washer (available at any ACE hardware or other similar store) -- that way you don't have to tighten up so tight (just snug them up) -- unless you expect an earthquake every other week. The stainless screws helps retard the corrosion brought on by high heat and any moisture that settles on the bolt threads as the system cools and with subsequent starts.

Pull stove forward to access back. Remove center metal panel, 6 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Disconnect igniter connector. Measure resistance, it should be less than 1 ohm. Obtain new igniter. Test new igniter, 0.30 ohms. Remove oven door, see care and cleaning section of owner's manual. Remove burner cover, 2 screws with 1/4" nut driver. Remove two screws holding igniter. Aside: This is the second igniter to be replaced in this stove. The last one was exactly two years ago. Both times a screw snapped. With a small 5" vise grip the leading edge of the screw could be walked out. This time the two screws were replaced with 6-32 x 3/8" hex socket cap screws, split lock washer s under the screw head, and hex nuts holding the igniter in place. Note: All hardware was stainless steel. The burner cover was replaced. Oven door remounted. Igniter connected. Broiler turned on, it ignited. Center metal panel replaced. Stove moved into its nook.

I removed the racks, burner cover, then unscrewed the cover for the starter. Had to get the correct ratchet to remove screws. The hardest part was removing two screws that held the igniter in place. Difficult location to get the tool in. They were also hard to put back. After that it was a matter of pulling the igniter out and disconnecting it. You also have to remove the drawer under the oven so you can unplug the stove.

Replaced burner gaskets.