JBP67GH1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Read the instructions on how to remove the door, found in the owners manual. Once you release the hinge lock latches, the door can be lifted off of the hinge arms.

It is fairly heavy and bulky. I spread a large towel on the kitchen table and placed the door, front side down on the towel.

Remove the 3 nut screws at the bottom of the door and then lift the inner door assembly up about 3" and hold it up temporarily with a medium sized plastic food storage container. This will allow room to access the 4 nut screws (2 on each side) that secure the trim to the door.

The old trim was somewhat difficult to remove because of years of rust and other build up where the front door glass goes behind the trim. Be careful not to damage the glass. I used a putty knife.

The edge of the glass will be soiled so I used a mild abrasive cleaner to remove the rust and grime, and then used a window cleaning spray to clean the glass.

The new piece had to be "fitted" slightly to match the existing screw nut holes but it goes together quickly.

Replaced

I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.

Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.

Removed two screws from the front, two on the back of the control panel. Open the control panel while all the wire were still connected. Disconnected two wires from the old switch. Pull the old switch out. Push the new one into the same opening. Connected two wires to the switch. It is easy and fast.

I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.

My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!

I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.

Robert did not do the repairs. I did! 70 year old housewife. I watched a Utube video and thought I could certainly handle that. Ordered my part from your site. It came in two days. Burnet was replaced in under 20 minutes by me! Anyone can do this. Super easy, parts just plug in.

Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.

I went online and ordered the part after reading other people's repair experiences, confident that I could do it because the part was quite pricey. First, be sure you're circuit breaker to your range is off. Next, open the oven door and locate and remove two screws with a socket, that are just under the top surface which will allow you to lift up the glass top which is actually hinged...no need to pull the range out. Securely prop up the glass surface area and the burners are exposed. With a marker, mark where each color wire goes on the burner you are going to remove and also mark where the two holding brackets are. This way you can reference the locations to connect to the new one. Carefully remove the wires and brackets and install new burner with brackets and connections. Close up the top, replace two screws, turn on breaker, and if there were no other faulty components,it'll work great. P.S Be gentle getting the very snug wires off. Good Luck

The repair was very easy and your video was extremely helpful. Especially regarding pulling the oven out and removing the back wiring cover to get to the spade terminals, rather than trying to do it all from inside the oven. Added bonus was that I got that pocket for the oven cleaned out like new! Eww! Pulling it out also gave me enough reach without having to remove the oven door (didn't realize you cold do that). Best part though was your mention that GE often DROPPED the zeros in their parts numbers. Couldn't locate the part on any website until yours noted this. so.. you got the sale. Went back to GE's website, located it and found your quality part was also less expensive! 11 minutes start to finish, quick shipping and works great! I'll be back! Thank you!

Talked to parts select tech after ordering the control board. Tech advised me that he felt the range could be repaired without installing any parts. Advised me to contact manufacture tech support and explain the problem. I did to find that the child safety lock was on, probably from cleaning and touching too many buttons at once while whipping surface. Told me to hold down + and - at the same time for three seconds and it was fixed.
Parts select tech had told me don’t worry the parts are guaranteed so I called for a RMA and returned the parts for a refund. Thanks Parts Select, y’all are real professionals and that is greatly appreciated.
Thank you all.