ZBD6920DSS General Electric Range - Instructions

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

First I flipped breaker to off position for refigerator, Pulled down on socket and broke it free. Then took needle nose piars to pull wire and plug out from hole, so I could conect to new light socket then snaped it in place . Hardest part was getting wire and plug out of hole.

Pulled out old socket.pushed in new one.

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

I had replaced the sensors, thermostat and evaporater heater without correcting the problem. Decided to try the control board. The main problem has been the ice in icemaker melting every couple of days and thawing all over the freezer food. The top part of the freezer compartment thawed with less thawing in the lower section. Removed back metal cover. Unplugged fridge, took picture of control board to remember locations of connections. Never needed it though as I took caution to remember the different connections. Unplugged all of the connections and then took needle nose pliers to depress the 4 pins holding the control board in place one at a time. This was a bit difficult and you will need to exercise patience. Not my long suit. Eventually I depressed the pins correctly and got the old control board to slide out. Replaced with new control board and re-connected all the wire harnesses. They actually slide on pretty easily if you have them in the correct position. I also had taken all the food out of the freezer and removed the cover to the evaporator which was iced up. Took a hair dryer and thawed all the ice before re-starting the fridge to give it a nice clean start. Replaced the back panel and plugged in the fridge. 4 days now and it is running great so far. A lot quieter than before.

about an hour to figure out what was causing the vibration and noise and about an hour to put it back together and 5 min. to order a new fan blade thank you.It started making noise during thanksgiving dinner so we toke it apart after dinner and I cut the other 2 blade to match the broken one so to cut down on the noise and vibration semi put it back together and 7 days later the part arrived.

Very limited working space in this model. Must remove grill and disconnect elect connector on motor. One additiional tool suggested: Extendable rod with magnet on end because you will most likely drop something. First, remove two screws holding motor to metal strap. Tool must be inserted between blades of fan in order to get to the screws and this is the hard part. Fan and motor are removed as one assy and this takes some manuvering. Might have to remove front screw on metal strap to gain more room. I did not attempt to remove fan shroud. My fan was attached to the motor shaft with a metal clip. Spray a good lubricant such as PB Blaster on the shaft, wait a few minutes and press it or tap it out gently. Save misc parts on old motor for reassembly. Your set up may be different so check out everything before starting.